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Help Zeal Indicators/Brake Lights not working - It's not the fuses...

Discussion in 'Maintenance' started by james1234, Nov 27, 2016.

  1. Joker

    Joker See "about me" for contact details. Contributing Member

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    I'm around tonight if you want to swing by, busy thurs and friday though.

    Just message me on facebook, you can find me on the club250 riders page (just request to join, I'm the admin there). Easier to instant message etc.
     
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  2. my67xr

    my67xr Bike Enthusiast Staff Member Premium Member Contributing Member

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    Sorry i've got thing's mixed up.
    Try it with the meter switched to the diode symbol ->l-
    Earth the black probe from you meter to the regulators' alloy body, and place the red on bottom left, next the top left, then bottom right
    Should get no reading's

    Next put red lead from your meter to the regulator alloy body, place the black probe to bottom left, next the top left, then bottom right

    My reg is reading 615, 640, 617 with the red probe on the alloy body (no reading's with the black to the alloy body) might still be ok having less than 10% difference ?
    I'll have to make up some jumper lead's or convert my wiring back to standard to test it out on my bike though
     
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  3. james1234

    james1234 Member

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    Pm'd on Facebook! Thanks mate.


    I get a reading with the black on the reg body, and the red on the bottom left (~950)

    And my readings with red on the reg body are: 466, 480 (spiking a bit though), 700 (bottom right).

    Mine's definitely cooked. I'll see where I get with @joker, otherwise I may get you to ship yours out next week. (Just found out that I've got 20 days longer than I thought I did to be okay to drive it down to vicroads!)
     
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  4. james1234

    james1234 Member

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    @my67xr Hey mate! @joker couldn't find his, so far. Any chance you'd still be able to chuck it in an express post for me?
     
  5. my67xr

    my67xr Bike Enthusiast Staff Member Premium Member Contributing Member

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    Yeah, i can post it tomorrow.
    Pm me your detail's
     
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  6. my67xr

    my67xr Bike Enthusiast Staff Member Premium Member Contributing Member

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    The voltage regulator/rectifier is in the post James
    I also put in a small satchel of dielectric grease for you to put on the terminal's to help stop corrosion etc,
    you can use it on all the electrical connection's on your bike.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
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  7. james1234

    james1234 Member

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    You legend! Thanks for all the help, Craig. And extra appreciate the bonus grease!

    I'll update on here tomorrow evening once I can test the new reg/rec on the bike.
     
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  8. my67xr

    my67xr Bike Enthusiast Staff Member Premium Member Contributing Member

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    All good mate, i have a heap of that dielectric/bulb grease, and other 'One Shot' satchel's.
    Repco are selling it off cheap to get rid of the last of their stock's, 20c a satchel
    They also have Battery Terminal grease, Anti Seize compound, Hose Fitting lubricant etc @ 20c ea
     
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  9. Andych

    Andych Moderator Staff Member Premium Member Contributing Member Dirty Wheel Club

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    Hmmm might need to get myself down to my local Repco this week sometime... :)
     
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  10. my67xr

    my67xr Bike Enthusiast Staff Member Premium Member Contributing Member

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    Those little satchel/sachet of bulb grease from Repco have more grease in them than what's in the Permatex $10 small tube
    Most Repco's have them hanging up on the end of their rack's
     
  11. Joker

    Joker See "about me" for contact details. Contributing Member

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    I use petroleum jelly... does the same thing right?
     
  12. Andych

    Andych Moderator Staff Member Premium Member Contributing Member Dirty Wheel Club

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    Not really.. both achieve the same result but Petroleum jelly (Vaseline) is petroleum based and has a very low melting point so in areas where the temp gets hot... it will virtually melt away...
    The dielectric grease is silicone based and is much more stable in higher temperatures... hence its use in electrical applications.
     
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  13. my67xr

    my67xr Bike Enthusiast Staff Member Premium Member Contributing Member

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    The repco grease is pretty thin compared to the permatex stuff i used to use, and the Superlube Dielectric grease i use now
    But after pulling apart some connection's i used it on last year the grease is still wet and hasn't come off.
    I have been using it on the terminal's of my house light bulb's too, the wiring in this house is old and in the lounge we go through a lot of bulb's.
    Since using it they have stopped blowing.
    My old man is an electronic's technician and said the grease is helping the connection to stay stable, so the bulb's aren't getting high power spike's from the terminal connection's
     
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  14. james1234

    james1234 Member

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    Shoutout to @my67xr..that reg/rec works perfectly - not getting anything over 13V now, and the bike's running great! Thanks again for shipping that out mate.

    Next issue - The rear break sometimes leaves the break light lit until I kick it up a bit. How can I check/adjust the connection between the depression of the rear break pedal and the rear break light?
     
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  15. james1234

    james1234 Member

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    Also, going for the inspection tomorrow (if I'm confident about the brake light not stuffing up) -

    Whilst the defect notice only lists the lights to be fixed, will the inspection "officer" look at anything else on the bike? The only thing I might be called out on is that the front brake lever is the missing the 'knob' at the end - and I haven't had a chance to order a replacement just yet...
     
  16. GreyImport

    GreyImport Administrator Staff Member The Chief Contributing Member

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    Look for something like this .... and its adjustable

    0169623_rear-brake-light-switch-for-1988-yamaha-tdr-250-tpvs-tzr-250-engine-3ck1_415.jpeg
     
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  17. my67xr

    my67xr Bike Enthusiast Staff Member Premium Member Contributing Member

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    My Bike:
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    So what you'll need to do is wind the rear brake light switch down maybe 1 full turn (clockwise looking at it from the top)
    You will have to unplug thew switch to do it, then plug it back in once you've wound it down, then test it out

    With the knob broken off the end of the lever, sand it smooth if you can to get rid of any sharp edge's, make it look less noticeable.
    Most bike shop's would sell a new lever for it for about $15
     
  18. james1234

    james1234 Member

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    Is it easy enough to find the switch on the zeal? I had a very brief look last night and it wasn't super obvious to me.
     
  19. my67xr

    my67xr Bike Enthusiast Staff Member Premium Member Contributing Member

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    On the FZR it is tucked away behind the frame, sort of in behind where the peg mount's come off the frame
    Pretty sure the Zeal would have it in the same area, you need to lay next to the bike and look up
    The part's manual doesn't really help, part #22

    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Dec 7, 2016
  20. james1234

    james1234 Member

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    Haha, I suppose I'll have to lay down with the bike later on then. The issue seems to have fixed itself, so if it reoffends - I'll get onto it. In happier news, the bike passed inspection and is back on the road now.

    Whilst we're nitpicking - a few other issues I noticed on its debut return to the road:

    The tacho has stopped working properly - it's definitely registering the revs slightly, but not ever going over 3k even when I spank the bike, so there's something up with that. Any ideas?

    Also, there's a bit of a low grumble note occasionally in the lower revs. It's a deep bass note, which you can usually rev through and it'll go away. Could it be the carbies need a bit of a clean up?

    Another thing, I'm right to just clean the chain using kerosene and an old rag, and then lube it up by lubing what's accessible then walking the bike a bit to get the other bits of the chain, hey?
     
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