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Help ZXR250 1994, Will idle perfect, only revs to 12k then stops running

Discussion in 'Kawasaki 250cc In-line 4's' started by timmeh01, Mar 20, 2015.

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  1. timmeh01

    timmeh01 Member

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    timmeh01, Apr 4, 2015
    #41
  2. timmeh01

    timmeh01 Member

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    Took it for a ride today :p I cleaned out everything in the carby. The floats are at 12mm (13 is standard for a C model I believe). Everything is clean and looking nice. Bike runs like a piece of poop. It Idles at between 4-6k (no idea why, it used to idle at 2). I can put around on it for as long as I want but when I give it gas, it is either very jumpy / never reaches above 10k revs, or doesnt change speed.
     
    timmeh01, Apr 5, 2015
    #42
  3. venom80

    venom80 Loud pipes save live's

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    If you pull the carbs apart you will need to synchronous them aswell or the bike will be run god awful bad
     
    venom80, Apr 5, 2015
    #43
  4. Th3_Huntsman

    Th3_Huntsman Senior Member Contributing Member

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    Unfortunately there is no a model manual. We can't even find a Japanese one.

    What's your locatio?
     
    Th3_Huntsman, Apr 5, 2015
    #44
  5. timmeh01

    timmeh01 Member

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    Between Brisbane and Gold Coast - Yatala Pies area
     
    timmeh01, Apr 5, 2015
    #45
  6. Th3_Huntsman

    Th3_Huntsman Senior Member Contributing Member

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    True, I'm just up the road at beenleigh. I have some spare A model jets for carbs and a different cdi you could try.
     
    Th3_Huntsman, Apr 5, 2015
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  7. timmeh01

    timmeh01 Member

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    That would be awesome I would really appreciate it! Could you add me on facebook or send me an email so I can get in contact? (t.vangsness@hotmail.com)
     
    timmeh01, Apr 5, 2015
    #47
  8. GreyImport

    GreyImport Administrator Staff Member The Chief Contributing Member

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    GreyImport, Apr 5, 2015
    #48
  9. Th3_Huntsman

    Th3_Huntsman Senior Member Contributing Member

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    Just sent you a friend request. On Facebook
     
    Th3_Huntsman, Apr 5, 2015
    #49
  10. Th3_Huntsman

    Th3_Huntsman Senior Member Contributing Member

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    I'm free tomorrow morning if you need a hand.
     
    Th3_Huntsman, Apr 5, 2015
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  11. Frankster

    Frankster Grey Pride...Adventure before Dementia Staff Member Premium Member Ride and Events Crew

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    Hey Guys. Sorry was AWOL over Easter break and only just got back onto interweb.

    With regards to the choke...If your choke is on all the time you'll foul the plugs and the engine will just die after a bit of riding. It also won't rev too high. I don't think this is your problem.

    As Huntsman has already highlighted, you have a ZXR250A engine in a ZXR250C frame and you're trying to use all the "C" bits to make it run e.g. carbs, loom, CDI, Vacuum Valve etc. This is your problem. I went the other way (C engine into an A frame) and I ended up having to change almost everything to make it run properly...even the switch gear on the bars is different. It would be easier to buy a C engine from someone and put that in your bike. In hindsight I should have looked around for an A engine as that would have made the whole exercise far easier, quicker and cheaper too.

    If you want to make what you have work, then start by balancing your carbs and get rid of the vacuum valve from the system. The carb boots are the same, but the vacuum hoses go to different spots on the A and the C. The boots on an A engine have cylinders 2 and 3 basically drawing vacuum from each other (balanced) and the boots from 1 and 4 join to go to the fuel petcock (from memory).

    Also, the ZXR250A frame is different so your coils and RR will be in a slightly different position (see below pics of an A frame).

    You will need to do a lot of work to make it run properly. You might be okay to use the C CDI (I think the extra wire is for the side stand cutout...not sure), but there's so much rooting around I recommend you cut your losses and do an engine swap. Contact Kiffsta as he probably has a few C engines laying around and he might do a swap with a few $$$ thrown in from your end.
     

    Attached Files:

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    Frankster, Apr 7, 2015
    #51
  12. Th3_Huntsman

    Th3_Huntsman Senior Member Contributing Member

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    Th3_Huntsman, Apr 7, 2015
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  13. timmeh01

    timmeh01 Member

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    Thanks very much for that. It's a shame but I guess it will simply be more for me to learn! @kiffsta do you have any of the above lying around?
     
    timmeh01, Apr 7, 2015
    #53
  14. Frankster

    Frankster Grey Pride...Adventure before Dementia Staff Member Premium Member Ride and Events Crew

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    You'll know the bike intimately when you're finished. Plenty of folks on this site to help you, so should be all good. The carbs are the same, so you'll only need to jet them to the A engine specs (and balance them). Just so you know, the difference between the 2 engines is the bore and stroke (definitely) and maybe the firing order (Kiffsta can confirm this point).
     
    Frankster, Apr 8, 2015
    #54
  15. timmeh01

    timmeh01 Member

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    I still can't figure out why the bike can rev to 14k for example, but when u hold it there it starts to drop off and sit around 8. Then i let it rest for a little bit and it will go back to 14. My thoughts is it sounds like not enough fuel getting through? (If so, probably due to C model sized jets)
     
    timmeh01, Apr 24, 2015
    #55
  16. Linkin

    Linkin The Mechanic Premium Member Contributing Member Dirty Wheel Club

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    Bogging down = flooding = too much fuel. Carbs could be out of sync.
     
    Linkin, Apr 24, 2015
    #56
  17. Frankster

    Frankster Grey Pride...Adventure before Dementia Staff Member Premium Member Ride and Events Crew

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    Remember I said the A model does NOT have a vacuum valve, so not sure if that configuration is causing some of your issues (in conjunction with smaller main jets). Like LINKIN said, it might be too much fuel or not enough air. Go back to the schematics for the A model carbs and configure your bike that way. You will need to balance the carbs to make sure that's eliminated as a possible issue.

    You'll hear people talking about engines "fueling up". That's what we think you're experiencing.

    Also, when you're running the bike, check the exhausts to see if they're all hot...best done by running a wet cloth quickly across all of them and seeing how quickly the water evaporates off each pipe...or use a temp gun http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Best-IR-...asurer-Gun-Wireless-Temp-Tester-/290840273731
     
    Last edited: Apr 24, 2015
    Frankster, Apr 24, 2015
    #57
  18. timmeh01

    timmeh01 Member

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    BIKE IS RUNNING! Working like a charm!! C model setup for everything. Took out the oil and changed it and its working sweet (petrol was in the oil :S). Now i just need to clean out the brake lines and chuck on some new wheels :) Thanks everyone for your help!!
     
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    timmeh01, Apr 25, 2015
    #58
  19. Frankster

    Frankster Grey Pride...Adventure before Dementia Staff Member Premium Member Ride and Events Crew

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    Good work.

    I might be wrong, but the only way fuel can get into your oil is if it makes its way there down the bores or if the combustion chamber isn't sealing properly. Once again, well done.
     
    Frankster, Apr 27, 2015
    #59
  20. Linkin

    Linkin The Mechanic Premium Member Contributing Member Dirty Wheel Club

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    Petrol in the oil is concerning. It could just be from the fuel tap being left on though.

    I would keep an eye on your oil levels and do another oil and filter change very soon.
     
    Linkin, Apr 27, 2015
    #60
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