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Project ZXR250A - The Wasp.

Discussion in 'Your 250cc Projects' started by Murdo, Aug 14, 2018.

  1. Andych

    Andych Senior Member Premium Member

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    Interesting you mentioning the sandbag, I bought myself one late last week, it arrived today. I just need to get myself some sand and a decent mallet so I can do some mild shaping.
    It has been a very long time since it did any of that lol


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  2. Murdo

    Murdo The Good Doctor Staff Member Premium Member Ride and Events Crew Contributing Member

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    You did, I'd forgotten that.
     
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  3. ShaneP

    ShaneP Well-Known Member Premium Member

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    If you get stuck for a dash, I have a few C models.

    On another note, I noticed a potential trouble with your build: the motobatt battery. They suffer failure a bit. Make sure your terminals are tight, too.
     
  4. Murdo

    Murdo The Good Doctor Staff Member Premium Member Ride and Events Crew Contributing Member

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    Thanks Shane, I have the dash finished. Still needs some wires to be fitted.
    xxx 005.jpg
    Re the battery; if you had read through my posts you will see I said the battery is only a tempory one to get the wiring sorted. That battery is for my VT250F2 and only on loan. I have used about 20 Motobatts in my bikes and only one was defective. I have used six Powersports and three went crook. I think I will stick with the Motobatts while they are still available (and cheap) from my local dealer.
     
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  5. Murdo

    Murdo The Good Doctor Staff Member Premium Member Ride and Events Crew Contributing Member

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    Can anybody remember the resistor value that needs to go in the pink wire from the TCI. Have looked but cannot find the posts with it in there.
     
  6. my67xr

    my67xr Bike Enthusiast Staff Member Premium Member Contributing Member

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  7. ShaneP

    ShaneP Well-Known Member Premium Member

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    Then I withdraw my objection, but just watch that terminal post doesn't work loose. And I didn't recall the comment of it being on loan. What were the other brand of battery? Powersport is a class or type of battery (apparently), were they SSB powersport? On the off-topic of made in Australia (a theme that's been creeping into some threads) I know century batteries are made in Australia, but does anyone know if katana or yuasa are made here?
     
  8. Murdo

    Murdo The Good Doctor Staff Member Premium Member Ride and Events Crew Contributing Member

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    Thank you. I didn't think to search in that line.
    Re the loose terminals; I tighten them with a normal Allen key from my tool box, not the useless thing they give you in the box, and have not had one come loose (but have seen others that have). I don't remember if those two dud batteries were SSB brand but this one was. Only lasted about two months in the Vespa scooter. Says 'Australian designed and engineered' but is probably made in China.
    xx 002.jpg
    The Yuasa in my dead pile has 'Made in Japan' on it but the Katana wont say where it was made.
     
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  9. Murdo

    Murdo The Good Doctor Staff Member Premium Member Ride and Events Crew Contributing Member

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    Well I've been having some fun with the wasp. Have all the wires run to terminals (but not yet wrapped, need to check first) and everything seems to be doing what it should, so time for a start. Wound over and over but could not get more than an occasional pop. Thought the wiring to coils may be backward so swapped and only got a backfire through carb and blow off valves (so they work ok). Put wiring back how I first had it and even with aerostart (ether in a tin) could not get to run. Went and got a new set of plugs and fitted and with jumper leads from car could still not get to run. Other bodgy methods resulted in still no fire. Out with new plugs and 1 & 2 seem to have a little water on them. Maybe condensation I thought, cleaned and back in again and still no better. It would half fire on a couple of cylinders but not enough to run. Compression test revealed 1 & 2 had 75psi and 3 & 4 125psi. Time to look inside.
    Dash lights and wiring working.
    Wasp engine rebuild 002.jpg
    Top end off and can see water droplets in 1 & 2.
    Wasp engine rebuild 011.jpg
    Gasket looked good but an obvious problem somewhere.
    Barrels off and pistons look good.
    Wasp engine rebuild 009.jpg
    Rings however had a bit of wear.
    Wasp engine rebuild 007.jpg
    Put the straight edge across the barrels and all good.
    Wasp engine rebuild 024.jpg
    Head was a different story.
     
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  10. Murdo

    Murdo The Good Doctor Staff Member Premium Member Ride and Events Crew Contributing Member

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    Putting the straight edge across the head and didn't need to shine a torch behind it to see the gaps. Onto the belt sander (with worn 80 grit belt) and first run revealed the problem. Sander only touching sides on No1 end.
    Wasp engine rebuild 019.jpg
    A few more runs and we have full contact across face.
    Wasp engine rebuild 020.jpg
    Looking straight now.
    Wasp engine rebuild 026.jpg
    Washed, oiled and wrapped ready to reinstall when new parts arrive.
    Wasp engine rebuild 022.jpg
     
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  11. ShaneP

    ShaneP Well-Known Member Premium Member

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    Seeing as it is turbo'ed, are you spacing up the cylinder to adjust the compression ratio? Especially now that you've decked the head?
     
  12. Murdo

    Murdo The Good Doctor Staff Member Premium Member Ride and Events Crew Contributing Member

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    No, because I don't think the boost will be that high that it will need to lower compression.
     
  13. Murdo

    Murdo The Good Doctor Staff Member Premium Member Ride and Events Crew Contributing Member

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    Have new rings and gaskets fitted (with thanks to my son for the help with lifting the heavy bits) and ready to fire up. Battery was a bit low so hooked up a good battery (the one from my smashed CF Moto 650) and the engine cranked about three times and the bloody starter died. Will pull out and see what it's problem is tomorrow. Too sore to do any more.
     
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  14. Frankster

    Frankster See the World before you leave it Staff Member Premium Member Ride and Events Crew

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    Have new rings and gaskets fitted (with thanks to my son for the help with lifting the heavy bits) and ready to fire up.

    I'll have to buy Matt a dinner for his help. Did you make a special tool/holder to hold the pistons in place while refitting the barrels or did you go with the procedure in the manual?
     
  15. jmw76

    jmw76 Well-Known Member Premium Member

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    My solution to help fit the barrels over the pistons. Modified hose clamps. IMG_20201230_113530.jpg
     
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  16. jmw76

    jmw76 Well-Known Member Premium Member

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    You need to cut the last little bit from the end of the strap so that you simply unwind and slide out when the cylinder has slipped past the rings.
     
  17. maelstrom

    maelstrom LiteTek Staff Member Premium Member 250cc Vendor Contributing Member

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    Hey that is a good idea, I will make some rings to go on the inside of the clamps.
     
  18. jmw76

    jmw76 Well-Known Member Premium Member

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    Yep. One of those ideas you come up with when you are frustrated with the time it takes to put the barrels on the crankcase and your sick of cursing and swearing at the bloody thing. Wider hose clamps would be better for larger engines, but standard clamps will work with smaller engines/closer rings.
     
  19. Frankster

    Frankster See the World before you leave it Staff Member Premium Member Ride and Events Crew

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    Sorry Chaps. I appreciate your input and clever tools, but the reason I asked Murdo about a 'holder' was because of a chat we had months ago when he was waiting the for rings to be delivered from O/S. If I may...

    Kawasaki has a special tool for holding the pistons in alignment while you push the barrels back onto them. There is no need for a ring compressor as the bottom of the barrels are shaped to compress the rings as they enter the barrels. Some assembly lube and Bob's your Uncle. The 'free-style' method for doing this job, is to put pistons 1 and 4 slightly above 2 and 3 in their rotation; fit 1 and 4 and then use the aligned barrels/pistons to insert 2 and 3. Also, as I mentioned to Murdo, the Kawasaki manual(s) suggests a particular way to position the rings. The ZXR250A manual has an image, whereas the ZXR250C manual actually spells out the degrees. I have attached the following images for anyone who is interested. Have a good New Year everyone.

    ZXR Piston Holder.JPG ZXR Ring Position.JPG
     
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  20. jmw76

    jmw76 Well-Known Member Premium Member

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    Hi Frank,

    I gather there is a decent chamfer on the bottom of the sleeves to actually help compress the rings into their grooves. Other engines I have worked on have a chamfer as well.

    Now I have not worked on a Kawasaki, but I would expect that any chamfer is going to be fairly minimal.
    I gather you have had success using the Kawasaki method????

    Hondas and Suzukis have bugger all chamfer and the rings wander all over the place in their grooves making it very difficult to get them to compress into the bore without a great deal of assistance.

    If Kawasaki have mastered this, I wish they had passed it onto the other manufacturers.

    Peter.
     

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