Went to start my bike this morning and it turned a little bit and then locked up straight away. I could smell lots of fuel around the bike. And yesterday when I riding, it had a bit of a hissy fit and wouldn't rev cleanly anywhere in the rev range. It sounded like it wasn't getting correct fuelling, maybe something was stuck open. I thought I had fixed this with the carb rebuild. If I could go with just one month of trouble free riding I'd be a happy man! Going to get stuck into it soon. Why would this happen again! So annoyed!
i think thats what the vacuum line going into the fuel tank is to prevent this happening, could be faulty petcock or floats. maybe the needle is stuck open also, just pull the spark plugs and see which cylinder is flooded.
Damn man you poor buggar, sounds to my like something got stuck in one carb and fuel just wept in there, so you do likely have a leaking petcock as well as a stuck float or needle or seat.
Don't stress about it you'll fix it with some patience & effort. What have you already done to it, carby rebuild, hoses, filter ? Is the tank rusty & getting into the carbies, if so get a great big paper filter & stick it on or replace the existing. The little conical ones with the brass filter are good but they block up quickly, too quickly for road use. http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/KR-Benzi...t=DE_Motorradteile&hash=item2328f33484&_uhb=1 Have you put a Litetek kit through the carbies if there's one for your model. It's only a leaking carby that's your trouble, not a petcock, fuel is getting past the inlet needle or the inlet insert 'O'ring around it. Remember when your fixing it & have the carbies off, take the plugs out & turn the engine over to get rid of the fuel in the cylinder. Also check your oil level, fuel can seep in past the rings & mix with the oil. Don't worry if it's only a little bit as it will evaporate off with running temperature but if it's too high drain it & replace it, you don't want it up around the crank or the show's over if you ride it.
I'm mainly annoyed as we have had some pearler weather lately, blue sunny skies but not too hot! I have already put a litetek kit through and I'll probably double check all the appropriate hoses. It has the conical style brass filter installed, I'll look into getting a new filter. From memory, the tank was pretty clean but I'll double check. I will most likely have to drop the oil as last time this happened there was so much fuel in the oil! I don't actually mind doing the work (yet), more so just the inconvenience with time etc. Any who I should be back on the road soon! Thanks for the advice!
might be time to bite the bullet and buy some of these : http://www.motorcyclespareswarehous...roducts/khv-24l24-float-valve-needle-and-seat Delivery is pretty quick
I daresay the problem is either your float needle is shagged or your floats are set incorrectly, as you have done the litetek kit, this is the next logical next step. Here are the instructions
Pulled the carbs today and there was fuel pooled below intake boots on both outer cylinders. Dropped the oil and it was basically all fuel. Not happy. Also some fuel hoses were split. Checked the tank, there was a noticeable amount of surface rust and rust/debris floating around. I'm not too keen on the gravel method as I'm not sure if I'd be able to get all the gravel back out! Are there any less intrusive ways? When adjusting float heights, do you set them and then angle them to mock how they would sit on the bike to get the most accurate levels? Cheers for the help thus far. Local bike shop quoted me 30 bucks per float needle!
Get some good quality fuel line, not the clear stuff, it goes hard, but the rubber automotive stuff. There's probably a hundred ways to clean out the tank but if it's only fine surface rust you could try some Hydracloric acid watered down 10 to 1 or some of that CLR stuff, it'll burn the rust off, oxidize it, then flush out with water or flush with the hose then waste a litre of Metho in the tank to soak up any water left over after a good blow out with compressed air, if your rich & brave you could try a tank treatement/liner but I've seen more disasters than successes with them. Sounds like it doesn't need it anyway. The last clean out I did was to get the cement mixer out & stuff it with blankets then fit the tank in the centre & pack it in with more blankets, I filled the tank with a few hundred 25mm roofing screws & ran it for a few hours, it turned all the rust to dust, then I cleaned it out with a litre of rust convereter & haven't ever had a problem, But I use one of those big paper filters & change it about 6 to 9 monthly. To set the floats, if you have to, remembering they shouldn't be out unless someone has been stuffing around with them, they don't just get out of adjustment. Tilt the carb body till the float tang just touches the sprung pin on the end of the needle, you don't want to compress the spring loaded pin with the weight of the float's, just touching is the spot, then measure as per the diagram, that's off the mating face to the top of the float. Be very gentle with this operation, it doesn't need much force to adjust the tang on the float assembly if necessary, Remember floats don't just get out they should be at the right height if they are stock, don't muck around with them if they are all close, like with in 3mm + or - You should be able to get new needles somewhere cheap, as a reference we used to buy Walbro carby kits for $15, thats rubbers, gaskets, paddle, & inlet needle, $30 for 1 needle is outrageous !
Thanks a lot for the advice! I'll just measure the floats and adjust only if they are out of limits. I went back to the local motorcycle shop and yup 30 bucks per needle. Apparently they are genuine and any others are cheap Chinese crap. With that being said, there is no way I am gonna drop 120 bucks for some needles, regardless of quality! Thanks again!
Have a look at your needles, if the rubber is hard or out of round, then you may as well replace them because they will not seat properly
So I cleaned out the carbs today, man it still amazes me every time I do them they are so intricate complex. What a cool thing (even cooler if they didn't **** themselves so often) Anyway I may have found a possible culprit. Float needle on carb number 4 was very spongy and sat down quite low and didn't have much spring. Also adjusted float level on two carbs as there were at 20mm. Also on order are 4 new needles and seats! Bullets were bit haha.
Got it all back together and running. Slight misfire or something on cylinder one. Sprayed water onto headers 2, 3 and 4 and it steamed off straight away, not so for number 1. Will chuck new plugs in tomorrow and hopefully that's it. When the new needles arrive they'll go in asap. Also been toying with the idea of running pods (I can hear the shitstorm already). Drew up a few diagrams etc today. Mate of mine has plenty of jets and pods etc so it'll be a bit of fun haha
In b4 everyone else, best thing you can do with pods is lose power and waste fuel by running it rich, chances are something will go boom from running way too lean. Unless you know someone who is a tuning genius that is.
this thread will get your tank back into good condition - though a sealing kit is a good final step one the surface rust has all been minimised http://2fiftycc.com/index.php?threads/rusty-fuel-tank-electrolysis.1809/ peace out
Got the bike running again. She revs cleanly through the whole rev range on the side stand but absolutely hates life when on the go. Anything north of 8k rpm it runs like a dream but anything under and it runs like crap! Particularly at around 5-8k rpm, but a few times it wouldn't even hold idle and it actually conked out on me! Basically it coughs and sputters and surges, and also makes almost a rhythmic back firing noise when feathering the throttle at constant speeds. I may have made a somewhat costly mistake as I drilled 2.5mm holes on the slides (couldn't help myself) but others seem to have done the same mod without ill effects. Could it be the cause? When seating the needles and the slide spring together I did feel a little notchiness sliding them by hand like the springs weren't sitting right. I did reseat them all till they were smooth in action though. I also shimmed the needles with 2 washers. Carbs could be out of sync, but the bike does rev cleanly when on the stand, so I dunno?
They will rev freely in neutral sometimes but underload brings out the flaws, in saying that I'm not too sure what the problem could be, you may have put the second hole in the wrong spot or the bikes struggling to burn the extra fuel from the slides moving quicker
I drilled the holes directly opposite of the existing holes, would location really matter? I dunno, would adjusting the air screw make a difference? Its a head scratcher alright! haha