Hydrolock... again.. fffffuuuu!

i think thats what the vacuum line going into the fuel tank is to prevent this happening, could be faulty petcock or floats.

maybe the needle is stuck open also, just pull the spark plugs and see which cylinder is flooded.

 

Damn man you poor buggar, sounds to my like something got stuck in one carb and fuel just wept in there, so you do likely have a leaking petcock as well as a stuck float or needle or seat.

 

Hopefully nothing is seriously damaged!

 

Don't stress about it you'll fix it with some patience & effort.
What have you already done to it, carby rebuild, hoses, filter ?
Is the tank rusty & getting into the carbies, if so get a great big paper filter & stick it on or replace the existing. The little conical ones with the brass filter are good but they block up quickly, too quickly for road use.
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/KR-Benzi...t=DE_Motorradteile&hash=item2328f33484&_uhb=1
Have you put a Litetek kit through the carbies if there's one for your model.
It's only a leaking carby that's your trouble, not a petcock, fuel is getting past the inlet needle or the inlet insert 'O'ring around it.
Remember when your fixing it & have the carbies off, take the plugs out & turn the engine over to get rid of the fuel in the cylinder. Also check your oil level, fuel can seep in past the rings & mix with the oil. Don't worry if it's only a little bit as it will evaporate off with running temperature but if it's too high drain it & replace it, you don't want it up around the crank or the show's over if you ride it.

 

might be time to bite the bullet and buy some of these :

http://www.motorcyclespareswarehous...roducts/khv-24l24-float-valve-needle-and-seat



Delivery is pretty quick

 

I daresay the problem is either your float needle is shagged or your floats are set incorrectly, as you have done the litetek kit, this is the next logical next step.

Here are the instructions

 

Get some good quality fuel line, not the clear stuff, it goes hard, but the rubber automotive stuff.
There's probably a hundred ways to clean out the tank but if it's only fine surface rust you could try some Hydracloric acid watered down 10 to 1 or some of that CLR stuff, it'll burn the rust off, oxidize it, then flush out with water or flush with the hose then waste a litre of Metho in the tank to soak up any water left over after a good blow out with compressed air, if your rich & brave you could try a tank treatement/liner but I've seen more disasters than successes with them. Sounds like it doesn't need it anyway.
The last clean out I did was to get the cement mixer out & stuff it with blankets then fit the tank in the centre & pack it in with more blankets, I filled the tank with a few hundred 25mm roofing screws & ran it for a few hours, it turned all the rust to dust, then I cleaned it out with a litre of rust convereter & haven't ever had a problem, But I use one of those big paper filters & change it about 6 to 9 monthly.
To set the floats, if you have to, remembering they shouldn't be out unless someone has been stuffing around with them, they don't just get out of adjustment. Tilt the carb body till the float tang just touches the sprung pin on the end of the needle, you don't want to compress the spring loaded pin with the weight of the float's, just touching is the spot, then measure as per the diagram, that's off the mating face to the top of the float. Be very gentle with this operation, it doesn't need much force to adjust the tang on the float assembly if necessary, Remember floats don't just get out they should be at the right height if they are stock, don't muck around with them if they are all close, like with in 3mm + or -
You should be able to get new needles somewhere cheap, as a reference we used to buy Walbro carby kits for $15, thats rubbers, gaskets, paddle, & inlet needle, $30 for 1 needle is outrageous !

 

Have a look at your needles, if the rubber is hard or out of round, then you may as well replace them because they will not seat properly

 

In b4 everyone else, best thing you can do with pods is lose power and waste fuel by running it rich, chances are something will go boom from running way too lean. Unless you know someone who is a tuning genius that is.

 

this thread will get your tank back into good condition - though a sealing kit is a good final step one the surface rust has all been minimised

http://2fiftycc.com/index.php?threads/rusty-fuel-tank-electrolysis.1809/

peace out

 

They will rev freely in neutral sometimes but underload brings out the flaws, in saying that I'm not too sure what the problem could be, you may have put the second hole in the wrong spot or the bikes struggling to burn the extra fuel from the slides moving quicker