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Hydrolock... again.. fffffuuuu!

Discussion in 'Kawasaki 250cc In-line 4's' started by edwardo, Aug 5, 2014.

  1. Willrcr15

    Willrcr15 Well-Known Member

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    When you have the carbies off check the diaphrams under the caps are in place properly, sometimes they roll off a bit without knowing & the vacuum will escape & the slide wont lift thoroughly & make sure the gallery that feeds them are open & clear.
    Could be that it's sucking air, those are the symptons of a lean mixture.
    Spray something around the rubber boots between the head & carb & see if the engine reacts.
    Does it have little vacuum tubes coming off the tubes? maybe they are sucking, block them off.
     
  2. edwardo

    edwardo Well-Known Member Contributing Member

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    Had another go today, I adjusted pilot screws to 2.25 and that seemed to get rid of that annoying boggy patch under quick throttle at higher revs. Will report in again after a week of riding to see if its gone completely.

    I dunno, I test rode it today and it seemed to be gone, but there was the tiniest hint of that symptom once or twice, otherwise it was okay. On a side note, the bike seemed to be a little less aggressive, just felt like it lacked a bit of power. Maybe it was the screws at 2.25 turns out, or maybe I'm imagining things.

    Carb-to-airbox seals were correctly fitted with no pinching etc when bolted down. Will get around to spraying some carby cleaner around vac hoses and carb boots to double check for leaks. New fuel filter is the steel mesh kind, seems to have almost no resistance in the fuel lines which is great.

    So that's that it seems, another big thread of my bike being a pain in the ass. Thanks a lot for all the help and input guys. Much appreciated!

    Regards, Ed.
     
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  3. Th3_Huntsman

    Th3_Huntsman Senior Member Contributing Member

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    i thought that about the power delivery of mine today but then i remembered I've been riding a 750 lol, good luck this week man, i reckon its sorted :)
     
  4. Willrcr15

    Willrcr15 Well-Known Member

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    Good to hear it's all positive
    The diaphram rubbers I'm suggesting to check are the ones on top of the carbies under the caps, the caps are usually bakelite or maybe anodised steel with 4 screws in them, they are responsible for lifting the slides as the engine revs increase & vacuum sucks the air out of the top cavity & lifts them, they can perish & leak & sometimes they can shrink & become a tight fit causing them to pop out of the groove that keeps the seal.
    You might be onto it though with those mixture screws, just move them in 1/8th of a turn, you might be going from one end of the window to the other, I know it's a pain but.
     
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  5. edwardo

    edwardo Well-Known Member Contributing Member

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    Reviving this dead thread!

    I am still having problems with the bike sadly!

    Engine is boggy around 5 to 8k rpm. Feels like it is dumping fuel and losing power. This usually happens with the throttle just barely cracked open and up hills. It goes away under more throttle, like it revs itself clean.

    Also, after prolonged riding in this boggy state, say 30 seconds, followed by stopping (at lights etc) the bike will not idle and conk out. This makes me think that this bogging down in the rev range is dumping fuel and draining the bowls hence why it wants to die at after stopping.

    I'm gonna try and balance carbs and then maybe adjust float heights
    Just thought I'd update here for more advice or experience.

    Cheers!
     
  6. Willrcr15

    Willrcr15 Well-Known Member

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    How dirty is the exhaust pipe lip / rim around the outlet tip, sooty or clean ?
    Could be the floats, they need to be just right, carefully measure them again where they are set & see what you have then adjust them to ?? whatever they are supposed to be. Check the floats are sealed & that they float, give them a rattle to make sure thay arent getting fuel into them.
    Did you check the diaphragms under the caps, they're probably ok but check for tears or perish cracks.
    It'll just be something minor
     
  7. edwardo

    edwardo Well-Known Member Contributing Member

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    Exhaust is pretty sooty and black. I did adjust floats before as some were at 20mm, spec is 13mm +-2mm from memory. I'm pretty sure I was careful with them but I may have stuffed them up. Diaphragms were in great condition when I had them out recently. Also the rubber boots that hold the carbs are in pretty good nick with no visible cracking.

    Just really sucks as I'm constantly thinking about it when riding and takes a lot of the enjoyment out of it.

    Thanks for the help!
     
  8. edwardo

    edwardo Well-Known Member Contributing Member

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    DSC_0157.JPG So I just checked the fuel level of the bowls using a clear hose attached to the float bowl nipple and backing out allen bolt also located on the bowl as described in the manual (very neat trick btw)

    All my levels were very similar but slightly low. The manual diagrams are very ambiguous as to what level you need to compare to but the spec is 9.5mm +-1mm and mine looks to be with in that spec. So I'm gonna take a leap and say its not float heights.

    On advice I will double check all vacuum lines and possible areas that may be letting in air somewhere along the line.

    Got a hold of a real carb sync tool (mercury) which is a lot easier to use than my homemade kit, which might I add worked pretty well, albeit very very touchy and somewhat slow to show real readings.
     
  9. Willrcr15

    Willrcr15 Well-Known Member

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    Ok good, your getting confident with where things are at on the bike.
    If the pipe is sooty it's running rich so I'd be looking at the pilot settings & winding them in a bit more & also the needles, go up a clip if they are adjustable, that'll lower the needle down into the jet & release a little less fuel through the rev range but you'll still get full fuel feed when she's full open up in the revs where it's needed.
    Keep up the enthusiasim.
     
  10. edwardo

    edwardo Well-Known Member Contributing Member

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    Balanced carbs to pretty well the best that I could get them, got them basically within .5 of each other on the scale of the sync tool, which is with in service limits.

    My needles aren't adjustable so I can't lower them unfortunately.

    I adjusted pilots to 2 turns out. Spec is 2.5. Iv'e had them at 3.5 which runs crap, 3 seemed to work alright. Also had them at 2.5 and 2.25 with varying degrees of success.

    So now I'm thinking I will just have to keep tweaking them till they come good. /sighs

    It's gonna take a while!
     
  11. Willrcr15

    Willrcr15 Well-Known Member

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    What grade of fuel do you run?
    It's tempting to run 98 but factory timing was probably set for 91.
    Something else that's simple to try & see if there's a difference.
     
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  12. Mclaren

    Mclaren Well-Known Member Contributing Member

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    Can adjust needles wack washers under them
     
  13. edwardo

    edwardo Well-Known Member Contributing Member

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    I'll give some high octane a go! I normally just use 91 or whatever the normal stuff is.

    Just went for a spin just then, still got that annoying flat spot at 8 grand with pilots 2 turns out. Sprayed carby cleaner everywhere and the revs did not increase at all- maybe not a vacuum issue.

    Carbs synced, floats all level and with in spec, this is doing my head in! Surely it couldn't be the holes I drilled in the slide? Others have done that with no adverse effects.. I say that also because I've had the same 8k flat spot ages ago without the mod done.
     
  14. edwardo

    edwardo Well-Known Member Contributing Member

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    Just rode to uni, 2 turns out on the pilot screws sucks balls and now gets boggy just riding normally, let alone up hill. I can get the bike to go boggy on purpose by letting off the throttle at 8 grand, it then farts and sputters until you rev it clean. Gonna try higher octane and back the screws out more. I have some washer laying around, will keep it in mind.

    Thanks for the help guys!
     
  15. Willrcr15

    Willrcr15 Well-Known Member

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    Could the chokes be leaking?
     
  16. edwardo

    edwardo Well-Known Member Contributing Member

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    You know it might be just that. When I had the carbs off last I fiddled with the choke slide as it had slack between the slide stops and the heads of the actual choke shaft thing. I put a ring of wire around each one of the shafts of the choke plunger to take up the slack. Didn't think it would affect anything..
     
  17. Willrcr15

    Willrcr15 Well-Known Member

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    See if they are closing properly under the weight of the springs.
    I had some where the springs had rusted away & weren't closing, I bought new ss ones from a spring specialist & replace the o rings where you can, check the actuator bar is nice & straight & it slides nice & freely & that the secondary spring on the bar is in place. It could be that they are opening ok with the force of the choke lever but not closing properly with the springs, I had just that on mine.
     
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