Pinned So what have you done to your bike today?

Discussion in 'The Pub' started by kiffsta, Nov 3, 2013.

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  1. ShaneP

    ShaneP Well-Known Member

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    Chances are they don't make any more money off 98, but that 91 leaves gunk on your carbs, blocks jets, etc. I could get a bottle of fuel cleaner, but it's a bit each way there.
     
    ShaneP, Dec 3, 2016
    #3221
  2. thebeefsalad

    thebeefsalad Well-Known Member

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    Primary race bike engine (KLX110) has been on the bench since basically the start of race season (season ended a month ago). Had to purchase another engine if I had any hopes of placing for the season. I digress. I sorted through 2.5 transmissions worth of gearing and what not trying to pick out the best bits to reuse over the past 3 evenings. My plan for today is to keep working through bits to determine what can be kept, and what should be replaced. Hopefully I can get through that today and clean off all of the parts from the work bench, only leaving the pieces I intend to use. That should make room for the pair of YSR50 engines I need to replace crank seals on. I really need to get those going to determine if I want to keep them or not. At 6'2" with an abused body, they're not the easiest of chassis to fold up on. One is streetable and would be fun, but not at all practical. Argh, did not mean to write a novel. Oh well!
     
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    thebeefsalad, Dec 4, 2016
    #3222
  3. Andych

    Andych Moderator Staff Member Premium Member Contributing Member Dirty Wheel Club

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    had a play with spraying some 2K clear on a trial yesterday... went ok... but rather than clear the tank I have decided to try and finish and prep all my plastics as well... at least the front fender... the rear cowl needs some plastic welding and rebuilding on one tip...
    I am thinking of getting SS mesh... melting it into the area where the tip is broken off and then using Gorilla Hair (structural bog with glass strands mixed in) to go into the SS mesh so I can shape it.... all the while sweating like a pig in the Garage... at least I have a pool to fall into when too hot...:)
     
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    Andych, Dec 4, 2016
    #3223
  4. Andych

    Andych Moderator Staff Member Premium Member Contributing Member Dirty Wheel Club

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    Grrr not happy. Coated the front fender with adhesion primer as per instructions. Waited over an hour after 2nd light coat and then used the same brand primer and this happens
    [​IMG]

    Now I have to wait while it dries fully before sanding it all back again.
    No more adhesion primer.


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    Andych, Dec 4, 2016
    #3224
  5. my67xr

    my67xr Bike Enthusiast Staff Member Premium Member Contributing Member

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    I use the plastic adhesion primer first, let it dry for 10 - 15 min's then put the colour straight over the top.
    The plastic primer is for priming pre painted plastic's

    Just get some thinner's and wipe it all off with a couple of clean rag's, give it a light scuff with grey scothbrite, wipe with a clean rag again then give it a couple of light coat's of adhesion primer, then paint
     
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    my67xr, Dec 4, 2016
    #3225
  6. Murdo

    Murdo The Good Doctor Staff Member Contributing Member Ride and Events Crew

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    Did a carb rebuild on my mates wife's Sherco 250 enduro.
    She had spent over $300 with a 'mechanic' for him to 'adjust' the carb and still not running well enough to ride. Pulled the whole carb off and stripped it all down on the bench and found some crud stuck in the body above the pilot jet. Got that out and back together and started on first touch of the button and sat there idling. :imtheking:
     
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    Murdo, Dec 4, 2016
    #3226
  7. ruckusman

    ruckusman White Mans Magic Master Premium Member Dirty Wheel Club

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    Polite request for a refund is probably in order
     
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    ruckusman, Dec 4, 2016
    #3227
  8. Murdo

    Murdo The Good Doctor Staff Member Contributing Member Ride and Events Crew

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    Was suggested. :oops:
    The hassel to drive an hour back to see them is probably not worth it.
     
    Murdo, Dec 4, 2016
    #3228
  9. Andych

    Andych Moderator Staff Member Premium Member Contributing Member Dirty Wheel Club

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    It actually looks like it has reacted with the remaining factory paint. If it was factory paint lol

    [​IMG]

    So time to sand it all back smooth again I guess.


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    Andych, Dec 4, 2016
    #3229
  10. sharky

    sharky Well-Known Member

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    Thats some bad wrinkling/lifting, I dont know what products your using, how much % thinners you using in the primer
     
    sharky, Dec 4, 2016
    #3230
  11. Andych

    Andych Moderator Staff Member Premium Member Contributing Member Dirty Wheel Club

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    It is a spray can (Septone) primer surfacer... and it hasn't wrinkled all over... some areas are OK...
    I will strip all the paint off and try again I think...
     
    Andych, Dec 4, 2016
    #3231
  12. ruckusman

    ruckusman White Mans Magic Master Premium Member Dirty Wheel Club

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    which sandpaper did you use?
     
    ruckusman, Dec 4, 2016
    #3232
  13. Andych

    Andych Moderator Staff Member Premium Member Contributing Member Dirty Wheel Club

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    400 wet & dry with plenty of soapy water... then a clean with fresh water... dry in the sun for an hour... blast off with air and wipe over with prepsol (wax and grease remover) ...it was a smooth as a baby's bum then 2 light coats of adhesion primer... and around an hour later I played on a coat of Primer.... now the original paint that is left has crazed... I am guessing it wasn't compatible with either the adhesion primer of the primer... either way... I need to remove it all and start again.. :) the joy of it all...
     
    Andych, Dec 4, 2016
    #3233
  14. sharky

    sharky Well-Known Member

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    I think primer surfacer is the wrong product, im sure thats for metals after etch priming or instead of etching?. I just use the plastic primer/filler over old paint or plastic primer if the fairings sanded back anywhere to the plastic.
     
    sharky, Dec 4, 2016
    #3234
  15. ruckusman

    ruckusman White Mans Magic Master Premium Member Dirty Wheel Club

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    OK so no shortcuts on the prep work there, I agree with Sharky, the plastic primer is overkill and uses solvents to attack plastics to form a bond - it might say on the can if methylene chloride is used (amazingly reactive stuff - destroys rubber for instance)

    The previous paint should have a good bond with the underlying plastic, so just primer @my67xr is a paint guru, I'm just an enthusiast so he may be able to guide you through
     
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    ruckusman, Dec 4, 2016
    #3235
  16. risky

    risky risky

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    i think the base coat was enamel and incompatable with the thinners as many years ago had a similar problem. reduce the coating thickness and thinner content.
     
    risky, Dec 4, 2016
    #3236
  17. Andych

    Andych Moderator Staff Member Premium Member Contributing Member Dirty Wheel Club

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    A sanding I will go... :)
     
    Andych, Dec 4, 2016
    #3237
  18. Spotthedogg

    Spotthedogg Active Member Premium Member

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    Full engine disassembly, getting bored/skimmed and cam'd
     
    Spotthedogg, Dec 4, 2016
    #3238
  19. sharky

    sharky Well-Known Member

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    Is the base enamel like Risky implied? Did it have clear over it? If its a backyard dodgy spray can job it might be best to take all the paint off anyway

    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk[/QUOTE]
     
    sharky, Dec 4, 2016
    #3239
  20. my67xr

    my67xr Bike Enthusiast Staff Member Premium Member Contributing Member

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    Might have been touched up with air dried enamel at some stage?
    Factory paint is usually baked enamel.

    The plastic primer is an acrylic based primer with a flex additive in it, the thinner's has soaked back through the paint layer's and bitten up/fried the colour coat.
    If it's not too much work strip all of that red off, wet sand it with 400 w&d, give it 2 light coat's of adhesion primer (80% coverage is fine) then paint with colour after 15 min's or so.
     
    my67xr, Dec 4, 2016
    #3240
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