1987 Honda CBX250 Project

Discussion in 'Your 250cc Projects' started by Kerz, Oct 16, 2013.

  1. risky

    risky risky

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    front forks is either poor damping or soft springs. quick and dirty method to stiffen is thicker oil , try specs for quantity and use 20/50 semi synthetic as standard would be 5w or 10w.
     
  2. Kerz

    Kerz Beginner level grinder :)

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    I will have to take your advice risky, coz I've looked all over em and I can't find a part number anywhere. I wouldn't even know where to start with replacing them.

    The paint I will have looked after myself.

    As far as the exhaust goes, would I just buy an aftermarket exhaust and have an exhaust mob make up the piping and matching headers?

    Indicators I would like to change the rear stock indicators to something like this:

    http://www.mcas.com.au/motorcycle-parts-indicators/barracuda-indicators-frecustom-chromea-led
    or this
    http://www.mcas.com.au/motorcycle-parts-indicators/barracuda-indicators-quadra-led

    Pod filter, depending on size of course:

    http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/42mm-Uni...ilter-for-Motorcycle-Cafe-Racer-/160962333506
    http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Universa...cle-ATV-Yamaha-Honda-KTM-Suzuki-/310758043424
    http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Black-Fo...8mm-High-Flow-Filter-Motorcycle-/171097415788

    I should be able to pick up the sprockets from the local Honda dealer pretty cheap, the 34T should give me more on the bottom, correct me if this I'm wrong.

    Would love to hear your opinions on this guys.
     
  3. risky

    risky risky

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    for led blinkers try ebay.com and buy from china as much cheaper.
     
  4. GreyImport

    GreyImport Administrator Staff Member The Chief Contributing Member

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    Front suspension:
    Old bikes arnt going to have the greatest suspension ,even when new, compared to a modern adjustable setup.
    First thing to do is check the fork oil ....chances are its hasnt been changed for yonks and isnt at the correct level.
    Then as risky suggests , use thicker oil than spec.
    The other cheap trick is to put in spacers to compress the spring a little to make it firmer from scratch.
    You can of course get new springs but finding them to suit your bike could be another story.
    If u pull out the springs take notice which way they are ...... they will have closer wound coils one end.

    http://www.gstwin.com/making_fork_spacers.htm

    Indicators:
    Use anything that takes your fancy .......... theres a zillion of them on ebay
    If u use leds u may need these .... I put cheap Chinese leds on the front of the FZR and they worked straight up
    Led globes are + - sensitive .... if they dont work u turn them around.

    http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/2-Motorc...orcycle_Parts_Accessories&hash=item27c8d67f6d

    Pod Filters :
    This will open a big can of worms
    The stock airbox is designed to run with the stock carby setup yada yada yada
    Heres a random page I found on the subject ........

    http://www.customfighters.com/forums/showthread.php?t=55888

    By all means try it but keep the stock airbox on hand ..... and buy some cheap Chinese pods to experiment with ..... which is wat Im going to do with the GSX pub racer :D

    Exhaust :
    The header should be fine to use ..... just change the muffler.... theres a million aftermarket mufflers out there.
    Pull off the header pipe and clean it up (inside as well) and give it a coat of heat proof paint.
    I cant quite tell from your pics if its all 1 piece or the muffler is bracketed on?

    Consumables like sprockets/chain should be a reasonable price from the Honda shop but Id ask for a price first.
     
  5. risky

    risky risky

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    anything you remove from the bike keep in a labelled box as one day you might like to return it to original.
     
  6. Murdo

    Murdo The Good Doctor Staff Member Contributing Member Ride and Events Crew

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    A better idea for fork spring spacers than a heap of washers is to find some old car valve springs and fit them on top of the original springs to stiffen them.
     
  7. Kerz

    Kerz Beginner level grinder :)

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    So I went and had the sprockets and chain checked and apparently the sprockets and chain are in near new condition so I won't be forkin out the $165 for a chain and sprocket kit anytime soon (hopefully). Also got my hands on some Wet'N'Dry from 240 up to 1200 so I can start sanding back the fairings, can anyone tell me what the pressure requirement are from the compressor to spray the fairings with a LVHP spraygun.

    Also Grey I would like to know what you think of turning this thing into a cafe racer, and maybe get some ideas on what to start doing to it. How do you choose parts for it etc.

    Cheers
     
  8. risky

    risky risky

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    start at 50psi and adjust up or down, use some old paint and a board to experiment.2 pak is the best but DANGEROUS.best left to the pro,s in space suits.i will not use any of the 2 paks as my lungs have to last another 30 years not 18 months and wheeze to death.
     
  9. Kerz

    Kerz Beginner level grinder :)

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    I heard that 2pac is real bad for you, probably carcenogenic like everything else nowadays. It just occured to me that the Cafe Racer option is starting to become more and more likely. So I'm not sure I actually need to respray the fairings. Will probably just paint the frame and or associated parts as it comes up. However as I have near no exp. with motorcycles and modifications of motorcycles it should be fairly interesting doing the mods to begin with. I'm keen and I've got a mate who's keen to help so I might give it a go anyway. Should I use Acrylic or Enamel for the frame?
     
  10. GreyImport

    GreyImport Administrator Staff Member The Chief Contributing Member

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    Your bike is a good canditate for a cafe racer ... in my opinion anyway :cool:

    I think the important thing with making changes is to do what u think looks best / works best for you ..... of course if money was no object then anything is possible but doing it on a budget and doing what u can yourself is half the fun.

    On that subject though I would seriously consider getting a price on having the frame powdercoated .... its what I aim to do with the GSX ....... so much fiddly sanding and what not ..... I had the subframe on the Fizzer done and it was only about $40
    If I use rattle cans (I do have a spray gun which I must get into use) I always use caliper paint, engine enamel or something like 'metal' paint ..... they seem to give u a more enduring finish .... and being heatproof is obviously useful in alot of situations.

    Anyway , to me the idea of a 'cafe' is to dump all the excess junk on the bike .... fairings,oversize indicators and instruments ...big fat lights and guards etc ...... and have the race/cafe style single seat , drop bars and maybe a slimmer tank if the original is fat and ugly.......and hide the electronics etc under the seat and tank...... a minimalistic look.

    Theres alot of "cafe" bits and whatnot on ebay (if you look at my GSX cafe thread theres some pix of things I may use on mine...and alot are ebay ..... some from China/Hong kong , but who cares ... the equivalent 'expensive' version would be from there anyway)

    These guys have some good stuff .....

    This one is in Qld
    http://mostynindustries.com.au/

    and he is a member on this forum ..... some good reading here but a little quiet

    http://www.caferaceraustralia.com.au/forum/search.php?search_id=active_topics

    these guys are good to deal with ... Ive bought from them before ..... their headlight and tailight selection is pretty cool.

    http://www.thirdgear.com.au/


    Heres a CBX on its way ... sadly ,as always seems to happen, theres no follow up to completion....

    http://www.perthstreetbikes.com/forum/f61/honda-cbx-250-cafe-project-111209/

    I like the direction it was heading .... notice he has cut the fairing tabs off the tank :thumb_ups:

    DSCF0501.jpg
     
  11. risky

    risky risky

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    2 pak is carcenogenic so would go enamel though acrylic is easier to spray and use clears for instant shine if using acrylic. powder coating is easier but will rust underneath if not properly sand blasted. most rattle camns are a varnish and not suitable for auto use.for touch upsi still use them [flat or gloss black.]after a while the paint cracks. if painting alloy a mist coat of zinc chromate first acts as an etch coat.try ebay.com for chinese parts and a lot of the higher priced is the same manufacturr in a different package.
     
  12. Kerz

    Kerz Beginner level grinder :)

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    Thanks for the info guys, I have decided that even though the powder coating is cheap, it's time consuming. I need to have this bike on the road so I will probably just spray the frame instead. I think I will use acrylic because I'm not a very experienced painter, but can anyone recommend the required prep items needed for this. Things that can be picked up locally at Bunnings, Supercheap, AutoPro, etc. I have wet'n'dry all the way up from 240-1200. I want to reseal the frame as the battery ventilation hose was cracked and worn at the top and the acid has corroded part of the frame below it (and replace that damn hose). Also I can't thank you all enough for your guidance so far, hopefully I will be able to return the favour one day. Also pics this weekend of the tear down, prep and spray. Another member F1Dz is gunna gimme a hand, he's a good bloke. And I love that Cafe Racer pic G.I, is that a GB 250 Clubman Tank?
     
  13. GreyImport

    GreyImport Administrator Staff Member The Chief Contributing Member

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    Not sure what the tank is ... looks like it could be a B before the 250 ...... but it sits nicely on the bike

    GetAttachment.jpg


    When u strip down the bike take photos of how things go together , label things like the wiring/plugs and put nuts, bolts and wateva in plastic bags or boxes with labels (I save all the plastic trays that meat and others foods are packaged in from the supermarket)...... its surprising how much stuff u will have if you go back to the frame.

    When u remove say the rear wheel, then put the axle and the spacers etc back in the wheel in the correct order .

    You will find it so much easier when its time to rebuild .... especially if its been a few days since pulling it apart.
     
  14. risky

    risky risky

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    preferably have frame sand blasted or sand with wetndry. when sanded dry with thinners and allow to evaporate. if any rust remains kill with a phosphate rust treatment[phosphoric acid].will turn rust to iron phosphate. spray with an etch primer and allow at least 7 hours to airdry between coats.then spray with undercoat and allow same drying time. then colour coat AFTER sanding the undercoat to remove dibs.wet sand colour coat with 600 wetndry and final colour coat.then hit with clear coat for instant shine or for more depth add clears to colour coat then final clear coat. dryfor a week for thinners to evaporate.avoid rattle cans as most are varnish.painting is a slow process unless you pay a pro for 2 pak in a heated booth.only you can judge money versus labour.
     
  15. Phil

    Phil Senior Member Contributing Member

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    Hey Kerz
    If time is of the essence as you mentioned I would get it powder coated. I had my frame and swing arm done in 4 days and cost was reasonable at $140.00 all up. Something to think about.
     
  16. risky

    risky risky

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    kerz, phil is right as the materials without time could easily cost this.$2.50 rattle cans not worth the effort and rattle cans filled by a paint place cost 30 each in newcastle.
     
  17. GreyImport

    GreyImport Administrator Staff Member The Chief Contributing Member

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    I agree ..... especially if you have damage from battery acid .... my Fizzer subframe was damaged from acid

    Other things to consider ....
    Original coatings from the factory are mighty hard to remove ..... I used paint stripper a couple of times on my subframe and it did nothing.
    If u paint yourself you really cant just start bolting everything back on a day later ..... paint needs decent time to cure and harden .... different if its just a cover or something but obviously its the frame to which everything 'hangs' off.

    That fork leg I sprayed gold in my GSX thread had been outside hanging for about 2 days .... rain was pending so I grabbed it and layed it on an old towel inside .... when I picked it up next day it had the pattern of the material down the side it was laying on ..... not impressed!

    You may find the time while waiting for the frame will be well used cleaning up things before they go back on.
    Things like cleaning the sprockets/chain , grease /clean the wheels bearings ..... cleaning/degreasing the motor ....cleaning up the wheels even? ....painting the header pipe? ...... all so much easier when they are off the bike.

    Having 2 guys will make things quicker and easier ..... but tearing down is easy and quick..... putting it back together is much more time consuming and harder ..... :D
     
  18. Phil

    Phil Senior Member Contributing Member

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    Couldn't agree more, dismantling is the easy bit. Chris and I use to take well over 2 hours when we first started dismantling, today we do a complete bike in just under an hour. The hardest bit is the wiring loom as it winds it's way around the bike and we always want it in one piece .
    I must confess I admire people who remember where everything goes, I tag and bag as I go if I am to re-assemble, otherwise it's an on going saga.:thumb_ups:
     
  19. Kerz

    Kerz Beginner level grinder :)

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    Well it seems you have convinced me to have the frame powder coated, hopefully I don't get ripped off. It is starting to become more and more apparent that I need another form of transport once the CBX comes apart. There was a cheap ACross on Gumtree which I could probably get for a decent price. I haven't decided on a colour scheme yet though so I better get to it. Phil - did the cost for powder coating include sandblasting or did you prep the frame yourself and just drop it off?
     
  20. Phil

    Phil Senior Member Contributing Member

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    Hey Kerz
    The price included sand blasting the frame and powder coating. My suggestion would be, ask heaps of question as to what the job entails therefore you should have no surprises when finished.:thumb_ups:
     

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