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Help Gday and 2KR FZR250 wiring

Discussion in 'New Members Say Gday' started by fizzernoob, Jul 15, 2018.

  1. fizzernoob

    fizzernoob Member

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    Kia Ora everyone! I'm a new member here and need some help. So I've got a 2KR fizzer for a project bike. When I first got it it was pretty bad condition but got mostly everything running (plus a few upgrades) and now after coming back to work on it a few months later, the battery isn't holding a charge. After a bit of hunting I have found a 2x female connector that isn't connected. It has got one brown and one red wire leading to the 2x block and for the life of me, I can't find the male end that it connects to. I believe this block is from the main switch (but I may be wrong) where the brown leads to the fuse box and the red leads to the main fuse and the rectifier/regulator (according to the diagram found on Lynxdragon's thread https://2fiftycc.com/index.php?threads/2kr-crate-motor-wiring-help.9099/) yet I still can't find where this leads to. I have physically compared the wiring harness to a 3LN1's and just can't find it. I can start the bike by hooking up jumper cables to a car battery but as soon as I take either the positive or negative lead off, the bike dies. Sorry if this is long and any help is much appreciated.
    Cheers, Kez
     
  2. fizzernoob

    fizzernoob Member

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    Also the 2x block is at the seat end of the bike, not at the front by the main switch. But the main switch is the only connector that has both brown and red cables leading from it. Hence why I am SO. DAMN. CONFUSED.
     
  3. my67xr

    my67xr Bike Enthusiast Staff Member Premium Member Contributing Member

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    Welcome to the forum,
    Any pic's of your bike ?

    Have you had or got the tank of yet ? there should be a plug / socket near the thermostat housing where the kill switch plug's in to the main harness.
    Maybe your bike had a problem with the killswitch an it's been bypassed ?
    Does it work at all ?
     
  4. fizzernoob

    fizzernoob Member

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    Hopefully get some tomorrow. I was trying to today but the lighting is crap in the workshop
     
  5. Murdo

    Murdo The Good Doctor Staff Member Premium Member Ride and Events Crew Contributing Member

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  6. fizzernoob

    fizzernoob Member

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    Cheers mate! That's reassuring to know I'm not going crazy :p Any idea why the bike would start when I have jumper leads connected then die when I disconnect them? I'm educated guessing that the battery isn't charging or that I need a battery replace?
     
  7. Murdo

    Murdo The Good Doctor Staff Member Premium Member Ride and Events Crew Contributing Member

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    I'd guess the battery is dead, but also the alternator is not charging too.
     
  8. my67xr

    my67xr Bike Enthusiast Staff Member Premium Member Contributing Member

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    To tell if the battery is faulty, charge it for a couple of hour's on a low amperage charger, 1.2A maximum.
    Take the battery off charge and let it sit, check it the next day and it should read a minimum of 12.6V.
    Any lower and the battery has had it
    When cranking the bike over the battery shouldn't drop any lower than 10.5V, if it does drop lower then it's time to replace it.
    Buy a decent brand battery as some of the cheaper one's wont last too long.
    I bought an SSB XR Drycell battery 2 year's ago and am very happy with it, they have around 30% more cca's than the usual lead acid battery's and cost about the same.

    With the bike running at idle the regulator/rectifier should be putting about 14V +/- 2 V or close to it back into the battery,
    at 4000 rpm it should be close to 14.8 maximum, you can only check this with a decent fully charged battery.
    Any higher or lower reding's with your battery charging voltage and i would be looking at your regulator/rectifier.
    Check for any corrosion on the terminal's inside the plug / socket and check that the body of the reg/rect is bolted to clean bare metal on the frame (use some Dielectric grease on the bare metal to stop corrosion)
    Also check the battery earth's, must go to clean bare metal too.
    It's pretty easy to upgrade them to a later type reg/rect if you need to.
     
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  9. fizzernoob

    fizzernoob Member

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    Cheers. Thanks for the help guys! Hopefully will have her all go and road legal within two months! Thanks again
     
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