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Linkin's 1999 Yamaha YZF-R6

Discussion in 'Other Projects - Other Bikes (non 250's)' started by Linkin, Jan 6, 2016.

  1. Th3_Huntsman

    Th3_Huntsman Senior Member Contributing Member

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    the zx7 is no slouch either guys, bit heavy but according to specs is a close race with a r6
     
  2. Th3_Huntsman

    Th3_Huntsman Senior Member Contributing Member

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    zx6.jpg
    r6.jpg
    zx7.jpg
    Sorry @cantafforda600 looks like your outgunned mate, looks like the rest comes down rider skill @Linkin although i think that zx7r test rider must have weighed nothing and conditions were perfect lol, on power to weight the r6 should win. However thats not everything ;)
     
  3. Th3_Huntsman

    Th3_Huntsman Senior Member Contributing Member

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    btw great buy link! sounds awesome with that exhaust!
     
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  4. cantafforda600

    cantafforda600 can actually afford a 600 Premium Member

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    those numbers aren't right
    at least not the top speed on mine. i know for certain itll go far above 230

    what it comes down to will be
    zx6r 105hp at 12500rpm/182kg dry weight
    r6 120hp at 13000rpm/168kg dry weight
    zx7r 122hp at 11800rpm/203kg dry weight

    so our power/weights are
    r6; 0.714
    zx6r; 0.577
    zx7r; 0.601

    so depending on gearing etc and assuming we all weigh the same and we've all got our engines running perfectly it should be the r6 right ahead followed by the kawasakis

    however my impeccable riding skill and funny sprockets mean i'm gonna win.
    i also have the advantage of being a 73kg skeleton
     
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  5. mishdog20

    mishdog20 Active Member

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    My R6 back in the day beat a 2004 ZX636, at a 100kmh roll on in top gear. Just had loads more bottom end than the kwaka.
     
  6. Linkin

    Linkin The Mechanic Premium Member Contributing Member Dirty Wheel Club

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    The bike started first try this evening. Half choke, no throttle, hit the starter and it instantly roared into life. I had the battery on trickle charge all night.

    By the time I had got to the servo a few k's away, it stalled. Filled up with 95 premium.

    Jumped back the bike and she wouldn't start. About half throttle and it started but would not get above 2,000RPM. And it was hunting, revs pulsating up and down. More throttle and it bogged down. Ease off the throttle slowly and it would eventually stall.

    Held it at half throttle and got rolling in 1st, eventually cleared its throat, but would still stall if left to idle. Raised idle speed a little bit. Sat at about 2,500, slowly dropped and stalled. Noticed lumpiness and bogging at 4,000 and below

    I *think* it is a combination of air leak in the intake system and clogged pilot jets based on how it behaved. Can't know until I get it apart. Have been told to change the cam chain when doing the valve clearances... but I cannot hear any noise coming from the cam chain.

    Carby sync and balance won't hurt either.
     
  7. cantafforda600

    cantafforda600 can actually afford a 600 Premium Member

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    sounds a bit like fuel starvation
     
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  8. Phil

    Phil Senior Member Contributing Member

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    One thing I am sure of is that you will have your R6 running perfectly in no time, this assumption is based purely on what you did with your FZR250. Best of luck with mate....nice bike :thumb_ups:
     
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  9. Linkin

    Linkin The Mechanic Premium Member Contributing Member Dirty Wheel Club

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    Right lads, help me out here. I have done some research on the R6 carbs and what people are saying is that the seat for the float needle has an oring around it, and that is what wears out/leaks. The float needle seats are apparently a press-fit on these carbs.

    Taken from the manual of the R6, the carbs are MIKUNI CVRD37. However, I believe they messed up. They should be Keihins.

    I can get a float needle set no problem, available all over the place. What I can't find is the right seat for them.

    I'm also trying to find a carb kit that contains whatever parts I need, and is proving difficult.

    Bike shop that this bike has been to said that a second hand set of carbs cleaned up would be better, but what if it has the same problem with the needle and seat? I think I'll stick to repairing what I have.
     
  10. Phil

    Phil Senior Member Contributing Member

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    Was the bike shop a Yamaha dealership??? These bikes were sold here so hence the correct seat should be readily available I would have thought. Same should apply for the carb kit, have you checked WEMOTO site in Sydney? I'm a little confused by which carbs are on the bike, if the manual states Mikuni carbs for the bike why would think that should be Keihins :confused:
     
  11. Linkin

    Linkin The Mechanic Premium Member Contributing Member Dirty Wheel Club

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    I'll try Wemoto. I think Mikuni being the brand is a misprint in the manual. CVRD37 is definitely a Keihin model
     
  12. Phil

    Phil Senior Member Contributing Member

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    OK, gotcha.
     
  13. Murdo

    Murdo The Good Doctor Staff Member Contributing Member Ride and Events Crew

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    If they are rubber tipped needles, the seats would not wear in comparison to the rubber tips. Maybe you just need to replace the needles and O ring around the seat.
     
  14. Linkin

    Linkin The Mechanic Premium Member Contributing Member Dirty Wheel Club

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    I will do that first before anything else.
     
  15. Linkin

    Linkin The Mechanic Premium Member Contributing Member Dirty Wheel Club

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    Bike started fine this morning on the way to bunnings. And again when we left bunnings. And again when we left Kootingal. But now it's been sitting for 2 hours and won't start!!!

    I have a list of things to check that is getting longer. R/R can die like on the ZXR250 and melt the plug. The stator can burn out, too. Valve clearances is a distinct possibility. The bike also has water in it instead of coolant, and doing/checking the clearances requires dropping the radiator.

    Next weekend, I think I'll pull it all off and inspect everything.
     
  16. mishdog20

    mishdog20 Active Member

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    When my Rec-reg and Stator went, the bike rode nearly 2 hours before it **** itself. Only way i noticed was the headlight and dash went out as it had no power in the battery left. Eventually the electric fuel pump stopped when i was in my mates driveway...lol.
     
  17. Linkin

    Linkin The Mechanic Premium Member Contributing Member Dirty Wheel Club

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    Checked R/R plug. Looks fine to me. Battery is on the trickle charger.

    Have some pics but Imgur is not playing nice right now.
     
  18. Linkin

    Linkin The Mechanic Premium Member Contributing Member Dirty Wheel Club

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    Imgur is having issues and I can't upload images at the moment. I have the carbs out and apart. All the jets are soaking in threebond. The carbs looky pretty much pristine. Even the float needle tips feel fine across all 4 carbs.

    I bent the float tangs a little to hopefully stop so much fuel getting in. When I took the carbs off the ports, especially #4 had heaps of fuel sitting there. #3 had the valves open so I couldn't tell. 1 and 2 had a little.

    I found these on ebay but the price is absoutely ridiculous for some tiny brass parts. Also the standard seats have the Keihin logo and "1.2" on them, not 2.0 compared to the listing.

    Motorcycle Spares Warehouse have needles and seats, have emailed them an enquiry.
     
  19. Linkin

    Linkin The Mechanic Premium Member Contributing Member Dirty Wheel Club

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    Finally Imgur is behaving.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    I have float needles left over from my 3LN1 carb overhaul. I didn't use them because I mainly needed the emulsion tube and needle. They look fairly similar. Wondering if I can get away with using them.

    [​IMG]
     
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  20. Joker

    Joker See "about me" for contact details. Contributing Member

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    Are you sure it's fuel related and not electrical (eg spark supply via coils)?

    Dunno, to me if you're getting fuel you're getting fuel. For it to work, then not work, then work again - I'm not sure fuel problems are like that? But something electrical, which heats up with the bike (eg plug leads) seems a possibility?

    When I first got my FZR it was flooding a bit, I could start it but it was a consistent problem (ie repeatable conditions with little variation) until I physically fixed it.

    Maybe I'm wrong, just trying to think about it logically.
     
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