Don't "run it in" just give it the beans but don't let it overheat. Watch out for the police they will be hunting you blokes
Sorry a bit anemic on information, bit tired. Pulled the helicoil that I ruined out, cleaned up the bolt, and put it back in. Bottom helicoil undamaged so torqued up fine. Spent about 6 hours reassembling everything today, took two batteries and half a can of aerostart to get going, but it did! And its not leaking its guts out everywhere!! I took the bike up the street and back, revved it up a few times, not to the top. Highest I did was 12k RPM on the last bit before I pulled into the driveway and called it done for the day. Gearbox feels amazing with the Delo 400. Def. running on all 4, you can feel the compression. The whole bike feels tight, just like when we did the cam chain. I have to re-do the headers with the new exhaust gaskets (and position the headers correctly, a bit leaky at the moment), tighten the sump bolts (retrieved a dropped oil squirter from the sump), the airbox is just sitting there because the boots are rock solid (new ones on the way). And finally, put the correct size tyres on. 95% done!!!
.... sounds very different to what I'm used to (and what I've seen other FZR's sound like). And am I imagining the rattle? It sounds almost... muffled...?
No you're not imagining that rattle. It did quiet down & need to put maybe 250ml more Delo into it. When first running it blew a lot of white smoke but that cleared off after it was warm. As said, exhaust headers need re-doing with new gaskets. Right now they're just in there the way I could get them in. Needs a good long run a well.
The new airbox seals are amazing. Airbox would not go on before, now goes on without effort. However need to set the idle circuit to 2.5 turns and tune from there as it's idling very high, and as such is lean... which caused the hard starting. Did a little impromptu adjustment, bumped the starter and blipped the throttle, roared into life. Radiator fan has failed and has come off the shaft. Only had tap water in the bike, so a little venting of radiator cap due to lower boiling point, radiator fan not working right, and running lean/high idle. Fuel tap is also leaking... don't know why, put new seals in... give the doohickey a push up/down/sideways and fuel comes pissing out. @Grasshopper and I went out for a short run on Daruka road. Gave it "the beans" a couple of times... the engine and gearbox feel amazing and are smooth as butter with new rings, new cam chain, and delo 400. I am impressed. Feels as good as the Ninja 250 did.
The doohickey should not be that easy to move. Check that the tap has enough crush on the seals when assembled. Clean everything too. Some taps rely on a plate with two screws to push the tap valve home. If that plate is bent or there is any debris under the seal then it will leak.
Hooray it sounds like the another dead Fizzer is fixed. Ok fix the radiator fan and the fuel tap then you and Grasshopper have to go head to head Not down your suburban street though.
Yeah, perhaps the fuel tap needs a tap with the whackometer (thanks to Dr. Murdo for that term) and new screws. It has a new viton o-ring in it. As always, 24 years of weather and abuse... fuel tap screwheads are lunched, even with the JIS drivers. Might just get a whole new fuel tap. Drag race? No contest, mine would win... Down the twisty roads? Grasshopper wins... has the correct size tyres on the bike and I do not.
7 and a half euro's each from CMS. The original ones from the 3LN6 airbox are longer inside the airbox. I think to prevent water getting into the carbs, or to suck air closer to the air filter. Like I said, old ones are rock solid, new ones you can squish in your hand. Airbox basically fell on the carbs without any effort. I got them from CMS, ordered on 15th, shipped 26th, arrived today. Not too bad but local dealers may be quicker. Local bike shop here can order them from Yamaha Aus for $11 each.
As the 3LN6 uses the Zeal cams the peak torque will be lower. The longer intake length would match that requirement. Shorter bellmouths, and therefore intake total length, will move the optimum rpm higher. Google "intake tuned length" or something similar if you are interested in reading more about this. Coz I am too lazy and it is really hot here.
By "peak torque will be lower" you mean peak torque will be produced lower in the rev range? Or you mean peak power will be lower?
I expect both. The longer the inlet tract the lower the rpm you will catch the pulse as it moves back out. Some manufacturers are doing variable length jobbies now. Ducati had that on their WSBK bike but I think it was banned.