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Project Linkin's FZR250R 3LN3

Discussion in 'Your 250cc Projects' started by Linkin, Jan 31, 2015.

  1. Linkin

    Linkin The Mechanic Premium Member Contributing Member Dirty Wheel Club

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    OK. This bike has the wrong CDI unit for the engine anyway... Cobbled together piece of ... that is better now it's had the Dr. Murdo and fizzer factory special touch.

    Tomorrow I will change out the water for coolant, swap radiator fans (and inspect the failed one), reset the carb idle mixtures & main idle, and test ride... Then go for a test ride... AFTER that, if all is well, put the remaining plastic bits back on.

    Can't stretch funds for new tyres at the moment, so I reckon I'll wear out the current ones and put new ones on later.
     
  2. Linkin

    Linkin The Mechanic Premium Member Contributing Member Dirty Wheel Club

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    Changed out the tap water for proper Nulon Red coolant today. Changed out radiator fan without having to drain the system (had already filled up with coolant - d'oh!). The nut that holds the fan on had come loose.

    Put a little more Delo 400 in the bike as a precaution more than anything... level was below the sight glass.

    Decided against putting new exhaust gaskets on, only because it's a pain to get the headers in the right spot so everything lines, on my own.

    Fuel tap... I put the original non-viton o-ring back in. It is a little thicker than the viton one. However this did not stop the leak. The tap is definitely seated all the way in. @Grasshopper 's bike has all the viton bits in it, and it stopped his leak. Should have left mine alone as it was fine. I think the screws are the culprit. Only 2 of them and the heads are soft, can't torque them very much. I think some new allen head or torx ones are a good idea.

    I also put the ram-air tubes on, then went for a ride.

    Words cannot describe how tight the bike feels. Compression feels great, engine pulls from low revs, no flat spots. Oh and the gearbox is heaven compared to @Grasshopper 's. Tight and smooth, not clunky at all... which is a Yamaha gearbox trait! That Delo 400 Multigrade is the bee's knees! The ONLY thing wrong with the bike now is having fat tyres on... might be fine for the racetrack, but not for the street.
     
  3. Linkin

    Linkin The Mechanic Premium Member Contributing Member Dirty Wheel Club

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    Also fiddled with the idle circuit. It will idle and start properly, but still hangs a bit before dropping to idle.

     
  4. Th3_Huntsman

    Th3_Huntsman Senior Member Contributing Member

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    That hang sounds like a vacuum leak to me spray some carby cleaner around and if the revs rise you have a vacuum leak
     
  5. Joker

    Joker See "about me" for contact details. Contributing Member

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    Mine does that too, hanging a bit before dropping back to idle. I think it's the way these must work?
     
  6. Linkin

    Linkin The Mechanic Premium Member Contributing Member Dirty Wheel Club

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    Only difference now compared to before we dismantled the bike is that it's got new airbox boots. I believe the actual standard setting for the idle circuit is 3 turns out. 2 and 1/4 turns and it was almost impossible to start the bike. 2 and a half was hard to start and needed throttle or choke. 2 and 3/4 turns and you can start it without throttle... Will try 3 turns out tomorrow.
     
  7. maelstrom

    maelstrom LiteTek Staff Member Premium Member 250cc Vendor Contributing Member

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    Hanging usually means the pilot mixture is too lean.

    Anyway about the fuel tap o-rings.
    I have to say this Linkin and I do not doubt what you said for a moment. The o-ring that you removed from the tap could have come from anywhere. Going by the craftsmanship seen elsewhere the PO probably put in a thicker one and bent the cover plate.

    Anyway the sizes that I determine for o-rings are taken from brand new genuine parts.
    The two o-rings are:

    For FZR250 3LN1 models you need
    1 only OR-049 = fuel tap o ring = 1JK-24534-00

    For FZX250 Zeal & FZR250 3LN3 to 3LN7 models you need
    1 only OR-048 = fuel tap o ring = 3AJ-24534-00

    Now here is the genuine 1JK-24534-00 as you can see it has a cross section of 1.89mm
    [​IMG]

    and here is my OR-049 which is exactly 2.00mm
    [​IMG]

    and here is the genuine 3AJ-24534-00 which has a cross section of 1.46mm
    [​IMG]

    and here is my OR-048 which has a cross section of 1.57mm
    [​IMG]

    So I can be accused of providing these o-rings as a tiny amount thicker than OEM but not thinner.
    cheers
    Blair
     
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  8. GreyImport

    GreyImport Administrator Staff Member The Chief Contributing Member

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    If theres no air leaks , hanging is caused by screws set too lean .... extra ¼ - ½ turns out
     
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  9. Linkin

    Linkin The Mechanic Premium Member Contributing Member Dirty Wheel Club

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    That makes it a lot clearer Blair. The black o-ring that came out looks to be the 1.89mm one. The Viton one I put in was OR-048. Appears that I need OR-049, which is what we put in Grasshopper's bike to fix his leak (his fuel tap plate screws are lunch meat as well)

    As for the round thing with holes under the o-ring that sits in the tap. The 3LN6, Grasshopper's 3LN3, and this 3LN3/7 all have FT-004 and OR-049 or OEM equivalents in them.

    OR-048 and FT-003 must belong to a different fuel tap. Grey's 3LN1 has a different fuel tap compared to all the other fizzers, but we haven't opened it to have a look.
     
  10. maelstrom

    maelstrom LiteTek Staff Member Premium Member 250cc Vendor Contributing Member

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    Aaaagh! Ok the funny shaped things are also exact copies (3D Scanned) of the OEM parts. The numbers are taken from the parts book. However, what happened with grey imports is that each importer had a collection of them because they bought them by the container load. I have seen this first hand as my friend bought a Honda 250 from a Grey Importer in Slacks Creek Brisbane. We picked the bike out of a collection that were in the workshop and it needed work. When they were getting them ready for rego and sale they stole parts from other bikes and some they had wrecked, so often you end up with bitzas.

    Now that you have raised this issue I should point it out on my web site so that customers can identify the correct tap rather than rely on the "model". @GreyImport Help!!!! Pics please Mr Grey of the different fuel taps.
     
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    Last edited: Jul 2, 2015
  11. Linkin

    Linkin The Mechanic Premium Member Contributing Member Dirty Wheel Club

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    Part numbers to the rescue!

    2GH-24500-00 is the OEM part for the older fizzers. Superceded by 3LN-24500-00.

    http://bit.ly/1RTnwqt

    CMS image appears to be the same as what Grey has on his bike, but it's not clear if the image is the same as what you get if you order one.

    My head is spinning... but I THINK this is the situation

    Grey's bike has the newer fuel tap 3LN-24500-00 which looks like this

    [​IMG]

    The rest of the bikes have 2GH-24500-00 which looks like

    [​IMG]

    This explains the supposed "wrong" seals etc. The fuel taps on the bikes are mixed up! I can only wonder why the newer bikes have old fuel taps, and why Grey's "older" 3LN1 has a newer fuel tap.
     
  12. maelstrom

    maelstrom LiteTek Staff Member Premium Member 250cc Vendor Contributing Member

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    Funny things in question.
    [​IMG]
    3AJ-24523-00 superceded by 3AC-24523-00
    my FT-003 (OR-048 goes with this one)
    [​IMG]
    3AJ-24534-00
    my FT-004 (OR-049 goes with this one)

    Maybe this is the best way to identify your tap.
     
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  13. Linkin

    Linkin The Mechanic Premium Member Contributing Member Dirty Wheel Club

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    I reckon you'll need to update your website photos with photos of each tap and which seals the different types need :thumb_ups:
     
  14. Mclaren

    Mclaren Well-Known Member Contributing Member

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    I like ur mics they are flash
     
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  15. maelstrom

    maelstrom LiteTek Staff Member Premium Member 250cc Vendor Contributing Member

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    I love that Mitutoyo stuff too. Will be stripping my motor soon and all the goodies will be coming out of the woodwork.
     
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  16. Joker

    Joker See "about me" for contact details. Contributing Member

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    Yep 3 turns is what I think as well. Mine are at 2.75 turns and I've found a real sweet spot with mine.
     
  17. GreyImport

    GreyImport Administrator Staff Member The Chief Contributing Member

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  18. Grasshopper

    Grasshopper Well-Known Member Dirty Wheel Club

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    As we've mentioned before... 2.5 to 3 turns is only a starting point - each cylinder needs to be tuned by ear individually for a proper tune-up...
     
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  19. maelstrom

    maelstrom LiteTek Staff Member Premium Member 250cc Vendor Contributing Member

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    Yes, you can rent Andy's ear for $350 an hour :)
     
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  20. Joker

    Joker See "about me" for contact details. Contributing Member

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    -"needs to"
    +"should ideally"

    You'd be surprised how well mine runs without doing that... :dance2:
     

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