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Discussion in 'Your 250cc Projects' started by Duggs63, Jul 26, 2013.
I usually post a new topic but forget sometimes
It's at a little shop called motorcycle mad and I think they do one every month. They make these flyers up and put them on Facebook if that's an option for you.
I got some funny looks the last time I turned up but it was a good day. It would be really cool to get both of ours out there if possible.
Cheers for the info mate, I will like them on facebook so I can plan for the next one.
10-12K I reckon
Does any have, or know anyone that has a PGM1 MC18 with working power valves. Mine are still playing up, and I am not sure if it is one of the 2 control boxes or the PGM that is causing the issue, so I am hoping to find someone that has a working set and diagnose from the so I know what I need. Beers are on offer for any takers.
I also got some #150 jets from Tyga which will hopefully richen the bike up a bit from the last time it was on the dyno.
I think the best way to fix this issue is simply to convert to a PGMIII. Pretty sure the tacho and stuff should work. I can check if youd like.
I've got a full PGM2 loom and ECU here which I could use, but I think the pickup off the engine for the ignition is different and requires some mods to get it working. I might have to start looking into that option again.
It will be worth it in the end Duggs..............
Holiday update guys:
I have figured out why my RC valves weren't working!!!!!!!!!!! After spending ages trawling nsr-world, a common theme that I kept coming across is that this system is highly sensitive to battery voltage. As the battery in the bike is over 12 months old and sees very little use, I pulled it out and threw it on the charger last night. I refitted it this morning and fired it up and lone-behold, the RC pulley sprung into life! (kind of seems obvious now)... It's a Christmas miracle!!!!
I have also fitted the #150 jets, and got some fuel hose and brass elbows to replace the 27 year old moulded fuel hose that was pretty knackered.
However, in true NSR fashion, there is no step forward without at least one step backward. As the bike was running and I was doing a victory dance next to it, a rather large puddle of oil started gathering under the bike... It seems that the gearbox breather tube that comes out just under the reed blocks and runs under the carbs and dumps right in front of my back wheel is spewing oil. This is a pretty common issue apparently as happens when a seal in the oil pump somewhere dislodges and fills the gearbox with 2-stroke oil... So thats the next job I guess. Baby steps.
Hope you all had a good chrisse and new years!
Great news Duggs. I'm not sure if said seals are the same for the 18 as they are for the 21/28. If so I have a few spare. They aren't easy to find. It's also worth using a bit of three bond to make sure the seal doesn't come adrift.
Thanks Fox! I am pretty chuffed about the RC valves. It seems that being a 2J MC18 is an advantage in that the PGM doesn't control the valves, so no need for costly rebuilds/replacements... And the de-restriction is dead easy!
I decided to push on with my current wave of motivation and popped down to my local repco for some of the loctite equivalent of threebond, along with some new tranny fluid and some more 2T. When I pulled the oil pump shaft out of the engine, the seal was literally half way down the shaft, so I have given it a clean and some sealant and stuck it back up where it is supposed to be, and changed the gearbox oil while I was there, and that seems to have sorted the issue. No more massive puddle!
What do you know about setting the TPS @Fox McScrooge because once that is done, and the power valves are set properly, I should be good to go.
Just what I've read on the tuning section of nsr world Duggs. There is a procedure to cycle the ignition and disconnect the tps to get the power valve motor to turn to the setting position for the power valves.
So after some false positives with the RC Valves, it became apparent that my problem was intermittent annoyingly.
After spending a day on it, I threw my hands up and swapped the entire loom and pgm1 (with multiple RC valve control boxes) over to an R5K pgm2 loom where all of the power valve stuff is done in the pgm. I already had the look and pgm which were fitted to a spare frame that came with the bike, and I tracked down some R5K ignition pickups and flywheel from RGV spares as the plugs and timing are slightly different.
I've now fitted the look and the valves appear to be working (touch wood), but I need a flywheel puller to swap the flywheels over. @Brizfox @Fox McScrooge would you guys have one I could burrow for an afternoon?
I do have one some where ill dig it out.
You're a gentleman briz!
I only need to remove the flywheel cover but by the sounds of it that is the only way to do it?
NSRs use the same puller as a CR125. Fairly cheap on eBay. http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/FLYWHEEL...339863?hash=item4d3017ad57:g:0UcAAOSwofxUdB80
Have made some progress over the last few weeks. I laid the two frames out and swapped the looms and PGM over to finally be rid of those silly RC valve sub control boxes.
PGM I to PGM II
The PGM II uses a different size flywheel and the connections on the pick-ups were different, so after sourcing all that from RGV spares, @Brizfox helped out with the loan of his flywheel puller so I could switch over to the new unit with damaging the crank. That part of the process went smoothly... Until I went to bolt the new flywheel up.
During the reinstallation process there was a butt-clenching moment when the rattle gun sheared the bolt that goes through the flywhee into the crank to hold it all together
Anyway, through a lack of options, I fetched the ezy-outs (which I rarely have any success with) to see if I could I could get myself out of the poo.
Much to my surprise, I had a win.
I then buttoned it all back together and ran it up to see if the RC valves were working and sure enough they were! Woot!
After setting them as per the procedure on NSR-Workl, I then proceeded to go for a run around the block. Unfortunately it was still running like a bag of sh!t, so I pulled the plugs out, and one in particular was nice and caked up, so I gave them a quick clean (the local Repco didnt have any in stock), and it ran MUCH better! I think I am FINALLY getting toward the home straight.
I then took some more piccies
Next up will be the old wire splice trick and hopefully a trip back to the dyno to make sure the AFRs are good, then hopefully out to QR for a track day.
I split the Grom chat off to its own thread
great news .....when are we all going for a ride......2 strokes love this weather.
Great job with the "easy out". Those things never work for me... but I keep trying.
Are the mc18 RC valve sub control boxes that much of a problem? I hear that the in the later models, if the RC valves get stuck -that can fry your PGM. My thought is a separate RC sub control box would be the only thing that would get damaged if the RC valves got stuck with the PGM 1?
Looking forward to how she runs after the wire splice.