so i have just pulled a coil out to give it a look . the two wires are held in with a double clip type thing (witch broke at the slightest pressure) they came out very easy once all the tabs had snapped of the clip , going to have to be very careful with the next one , can u suggest any like loctite or somthing i could use to hold the new wires in , the wires are 7 mm and the new ones are also but they came out so easily without the clip . the clip just wedged them in i guess
So the clips cant be re used? What is inside the coil for contact with the lead ... a metal spike ? If the clips are rendered useless I would think to epoxy them in , at the top section, would do the trick ..... would seal them also. The dyna coils look the goods .... but even as just a replacement as opposed to an upgrade for performance ...... expensive ! Cheers for the info. I wonder if there are any coils from later model bikes that would be a straight swap.
Was checking out some other sites, think it was FZR250 that mentioned many interchangeable parts with more recent Yamaha bikes. Might be worth a look, one chap used goods off an R1 for his fizzer.????
i may be able to re-use the clip but more as a cover , the wires were pinched (not to the core) where the clips held them im thinking if i can do the same to the new wires i can just loctite the clip back in and yes its a small metal spike maybe 6mm long yeah i seen the write up with guy using r1 coils , im after a much cleaner end result he had some sought of sealant to hold them in , if it comes to not being able to use the clip i broke ill try and get some sought of circular wedge to hold them in failing that ill try a few rounds of tape to wedge em in , or loctite
Mr Grey mentioned "I wonder if there are any coils from later model bikes that would be a straight swap." Be wary of fitting the coil-on-cap option from late model efi bikes. I have read some reports about them producing less output than what we use now. I can't substantiate this, but like I said before you need to make informed decisions before replacing what the engineers chose in the first place. I don't recall any of the wsbk optional kit parts ever including ignition coils. What you want is a strong spark and to get that you need voltage on the primary side. We all seem to have problems when it comes to having enough amps when cranking to get a good spark. I think the Lithium-Ion batteries have a lot to offer in this respect. Along the same lines I think total loss (the name is the promise) ignition system for race bikes is just madness. For every volt you lose at the battery you lose much more at the spark plug. Also fitting a mosfet regulator/rectifier would be a step in the right direction. Electrics is one of my favourites but only because I like making wiring harnesses. I don't know that much about it.
So after the 'ride' today I encountered a couple of glitches ..... Even though rumour has it I called for a pickup so I wouldnt get my bike dirty due to roadworks ahead , I will admit to being a dick and running short on fuel ...... I do need to flush out the tank again and the taller internal filter has come adrift. I found shifting down a little troublesome (apart from my lack of match practice) and going from 5th to 4th near impossible without stomping on the lever. The clutch may need an overhaul and Ill look at that when I fix 3rd gear. I need to check the clutch cable and make sure its adjusted correctly (at the clutch end)..... the other problem with the cable is its very very tight around the frame etc , which may be causing a problem. The biggest problem though is this sudden lack of power out of the blue Its exactly the same as before the carby overhaul so its not a fuel problem. The pumps primes perfectly and it starts but its just in "idle'' mode no matter how much throttle or choke or wateva is used . And after a short period of time it all works fine again. Maybe its something electrical that fails when overheating and works again after some cooling down .... as risky suggests 'overheating coils' I have a spare black box and spare coils ..... bit of trial and error I guess.
i had a yammy 2 stroke once that would drop a cylinder but when battery recharged would go like the hammers. battery ok? coil ok?leccy can test off the bike.
the shifting arms on these are known to bend i think , i have a similar problem on my street fighter 3ln though when i pulled the clutch out i could easily shift all the gears by hand you would think that indicates a clutch prob , could be, i would first check the little plastic spacer on the shift rod myn was super gunked up .
From someone who knows a lot more than me http://www.superhawkforum.com/forums/knowledge-base-40/mosfet-regulator-rectifiers-why-how-25117/ There is a guy selling Shindengen Mosfet jobbies with weatherpack connectors on eBay http://www.ebay.com/itm/SHINDENGEN-...-RECTIFIER-KIT-REPLACES-FH012AA-/380704480069 Or maybe this one for Yamahas. He has an eBay shop, worth a look. http://www.ebay.com/itm/YAMAHA-SHIN...Parts_Accessories&vxp=mtr&hash=item58a3ccf7ca
It should be spotless and all greased up nicely as I had it all apart. The lever is pretty loose in sideways movement and I think I may be pushing it inwards with my big foot and hitting the 'balljoint' on the rod when downshifting. I might bent the lever a little outwards and maybe throw in a few more spacers.
Yea that was the plan after sorting the tank tomorrow .... just bought 1oltrs of new fuel (note to Phil) but also 7920mls of beer ... which I am now consuming
So all 4 coils are showing 1.0 ohms primary and zero secondary Either I have 4 dead coils or my testing is seriously off
sounds a bit off mate, try the old cranking trick with the plug earthed to the block, blue spark = fine, red spark = weak