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Shaun's ZXR250 A model Build Thread

Discussion in 'Kawasaki 250cc In-line 4's' started by zxaar, Jul 2, 2013.

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  1. GreyImport

    GreyImport Administrator Staff Member The Chief Contributing Member

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    If u are replacing the chain u should also replace the sprockets

    Going by the parts list it takes a 520 x 110 link chain + 48T rear sprocket
    520 is the chain pitch so the sprockets need to match

    You can get a chain thats longer and if your careful enough u can cut it with a grinder ..... or just take it to the bike shop Im sure they will cut it for you.
    Make sure u have the rear wheel pushed as far forward as possible to allow for chain stretch/adjustment later on.

    If u go up or down with sprocket teeth , front or rear , then u will up the acceleration but lower the top speed and vice versa.
    http://www.gearingcommander.com/
     
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    GreyImport, Jul 11, 2013
    #81
  2. zxaar

    zxaar Member

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    Oh ok, I was just going to put a new chain on but it sounds like I should be changing the sprockets as well. Do I have to get new sprockets or will just changing the chain be ok? I am a bit broke at the moment and was just going to get a new chain for the roadworthy as the old one is a bit stiff and rusty. If I get the full chain and sprocket kit then I won't be able to afford the new battery and repair the fairing for another two weeks which will mean roadworthy will have to be put back another two weeks and I really want to get it on the road asap.
     
    zxaar, Jul 11, 2013
    #82
  3. risky

    risky risky

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    look on ebay for a motobatt battery as some dealers are cheaper. if the old chain only needs a clean soak in kero and wire brush the rust off after drying, then spray with chain lube or soak in engine oil. if used no hassle as you can replace chain in a month or to. some motobatts come with free charger.
     
    risky, Jul 11, 2013
    #83
  4. kiffsta

    kiffsta Senior Member

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    New chain on old spockets will destroy the new chain, best to do them together. :thumb_ups:
     
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    kiffsta, Jul 11, 2013
    #84
  5. zxaar

    zxaar Member

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    That's good advise but the chain also has some o-rings that have come out of the link so a new one would be better for peace of mind I think. The battery that I am getting is a Motobatt MB9U I think it was.
     
    zxaar, Jul 11, 2013
    #85
  6. GreyImport

    GreyImport Administrator Staff Member The Chief Contributing Member

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    Someone will know better than me how chain and sprockets affect roadworthy inspections.

    Other wise to see u thru temporarily I would take off the chain...clean it throughly with kero and get the chain lube on to it and give it a good going over ...... clean up the sprockets as well .
    Make sure its tensioned correctly.

    Edit : I see the chain is damaged so ignore that....whole new kit is the go.

    Heres a new to worn sprocket example....

    Sprockets.jpg
     
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    GreyImport, Jul 11, 2013
    #86
  7. zxaar

    zxaar Member

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    Ahh yep that makes alot more sense to me now that you have shown me that pic of new vs old and worn sprocket. Thanks :thumb_ups:
     
    zxaar, Jul 11, 2013
    #87
  8. kiffsta

    kiffsta Senior Member

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    The general rule is if they are sharp, then they have to be replaced, good pic GI !!!
     
    kiffsta, Jul 11, 2013
    #88
  9. risky

    risky risky

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    check auto 1 and auto pro for the battery as ebay,s cheapest is $95.retailing is tuff so should do you a deal.the oiled chain will get you out of crap.
     
    risky, Jul 11, 2013
    #89
  10. zxaar

    zxaar Member

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    zxaar, Jul 11, 2013
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  11. Murdo

    Murdo The Good Doctor Staff Member Contributing Member Ride and Events Crew

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    Murdo, Jul 11, 2013
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  12. GreyImport

    GreyImport Administrator Staff Member The Chief Contributing Member

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    If u have any bike shops nearby call in or ring for a price....... that looks a reasonable price but if u can just call in and pick it up ,might be easier..... and no shipping cost.

    I picked mine up from the local Yammy dealer for about that..... it was an SSB Powersports though as they no longer stocked Motobatt

    http://www.ssbpowersport.com.au/

    Preferably quote the batt number and not the bike model.... might scare them off :aggressive:
     
    GreyImport, Jul 11, 2013
    #92
  13. GreyImport

    GreyImport Administrator Staff Member The Chief Contributing Member

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    GreyImport, Jul 11, 2013
    #93
  14. risky

    risky risky

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    risky, Jul 11, 2013
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  15. zxaar

    zxaar Member

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    $88 inc. postage
     
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    zxaar, Jul 11, 2013
    #95
  16. Phil

    Phil Senior Member Contributing Member

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    That sounds pretty fair to me.
     
    Phil, Jul 11, 2013
    #96
  17. zxaar

    zxaar Member

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    I pulled the front brakes apart this morning and gave the whole lot a clean-up but the pistons are stuck and I cannot get them out at all. I have them soaking in degreaser so hopefully they free up enough to remove them.
     
    zxaar, Jul 13, 2013
    #97
  18. risky

    risky risky

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    try using compressed air in pipe hole. if nothing else works drill hole in back and knock out. tap hole and use small bolt and fibre washer to seal. this is the desperation trick. may need new piston if corroded in.
     
    risky, Jul 13, 2013
    #98
  19. GreyImport

    GreyImport Administrator Staff Member The Chief Contributing Member

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    Remind me never to take my calipers to you if they have stuck pistons ..... drilling holes in brake calipers? :commando:

    How about just attaching them to the brakes hoses with no pads and pumping them out with the brake lever?

    If they are stuck part way out then use something like a bar clamp to squeeze them fully in to loosen them up ....
    rinse and repeat
    http://www.gettoolsdirect.com.au/ir...00_a_7c81501&gclid=CJX4if7lq7gCFQMwpAodCkkAkg
     
    GreyImport, Jul 13, 2013
    #99
  20. kiffsta

    kiffsta Senior Member

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    I use compressed air, remove the caliper from the bike, and remove the banjo bolt from the caliper , once its removed find a bolt with the same thread as the banjo bolt and plug the hole to seal it up, then remove the bleed nipple from the caliper. I usually lay the handle from my rubber mallett across the caliper behind the pistons to stop both pistons moving all the way out as one will usally free up before the other and then you get even more stuck. I have an air attachment on my compressure for straight air, I wrap some black electrical tape aroud it for a better seal then I feed the end of it into the hole for the bleed nipple, then I squeeze away in short spurts, you need both pistons to free up then they will come away with a set of pliers.

    be warned, compressed air can be dangerous
    I have had pistons fly accross the room, its important to the lay something across them to ensure they dont fly away, to be safe, I also wrap it all in a rag leaving only the bleed nipple hole exposed.

    Check the pistons and seals, if they are shot, order some new ones !!! caliper.JPG
     
    kiffsta, Jul 13, 2013
    #100
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