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Discussion in 'The Pub' started by kiffsta, Nov 3, 2013.
Swap you for a running GSXR250
Just scored a set of fairings off one of my customers for $200 , will have to sort out the tank colour
I pulled my crank apart yesterday and wondered which movie this monkey face is from:
I have a set of fairings if your interested
Spent a bit of time sorting her out today, carbs cleaned , replaced a faulty rear chain adjuster , fitted new chain , fitted fairings she rides really well.
I won’t taker her home , I already have one , anyone what to buy an aus delivered mc22
Day 3 of trying to remove a cbr 250 MC19 cylinder liner, it still won't budge
I seems they were "cast in" while the upper crankcase was poured, with no visible "alloy ends, cast iron begins" on the bottom, I made a sort of boring bar to cut the over hanging alloy to enable access with a machined 6mm steel shouldered plug, cooked the top block 1/2 in the Kookaburra oven @ 400F for 1/2 hr, no movement, again, even with a few wallops with an attitude changer, just in case there was some alloy left under the shouldered plug.
Looks like it's time to cut up block #3 (with good std bores)
Weld it? Weld lines in the liner, the shrinkage might free it.
Another option might be heat the entire case then put dry ice pellets into the cylinders to try and create a larger temperature difference, or a combination with the welding and then heating followed by the dry ice pellets
I believe they liner may be similar in external surface to the ones pictured in this document on page 29 if they're encapsulated at the time of casting
Shane, I'd like to keep the structural integrity of the sleeve intact, although the weld bead may be the last alternative, as ruckusman suggested, dry ice cooling, after BBQ ing the block may work,
Another problem I will probably encounter is if the liner OD has inconsistencies, so will the block. & the whole idea with removing the "crook" sleeve & replacing it with a "good" one wont work without boring the block to get it true, it'll render the "good" sleeve unusable in the re-machined block .
I've wasted too much time on this hurdle now, so I'll put block #2 aside until I get bored & cut the 'box off block #3, which has good sleeves AND AAAAA coded mains
Flange sleeves on the left hand side option
They are .25" larger in the O.D. than the I.D. so the sleeve wall thickness is .125" - prices are about ~$50USD
47.620mm or 49.200mm, typical,,no 48.5mm option, looks like the LA-114 1/8 wall option could work, IF they were flanged @ the top, as the FL-48 has (measurements check required) although the valve cutouts would still be a pain to jig up for,,
Thanks for the links ruckusman & Shane
All of the sleeves will need to be bored and honed to final size, I have asked and the internal dimensions are below stated dimensions the L114 - 1/8" wall would bore to 48.5mm easily and leave ~2.75mm wall thickness, which is more than the LA-114 with a 3/32 (~2.4mm) wall BUT that depends upon the OEM sleeve being removable and leaving adequate material for a sleeve of appropriate dimensions
BTW - they do custom for not may $$ more and I've searched extensively, few others do sleeves in the smaller dimensions - they're helpful with inquiries
Don't know if it's worth it to you to have the damaged one bored to remove, take measurements then go from there
I do recall that @Mngforce mentioned IF he were to overbore he'd coat the barrels - perhaps somewhere in this thread if you haven't seen it already - so he obviously thinks there would be sufficient material left if he were to remove the sleeves
All good, I had wondered if Dave had any similar experiences with his MC22's ?
I also have a maximum over bore regulation to think about when racing within the DLRA rules, exceed this the engine would be considered a 650, and it's be up against late model 600/4's, and it could not be competitive , although I'm thinking,,sidecar,,,, naturally aspirated 500SC-G record is 106.232 mph, 500 SC-F is 97.582mph
Solo 650 MPS-G record is 171.217 , sidecar record for 650SC-G is 105.507, no other's have competed in the 650 sidecar classes
OK - out of interest, what's your overbore limit to remain competitive and not tangling with the bigger bikes?
Is it too late to salvage the damaged sleeve with an overbore?
AHL in aliexpress sell oversize pistons and even Dave moss/Mike Norman used them in that MC22
@Murdo and @Linkin are two other peeps that I believe have used the AHL pistons from Aliexpress
1st over bore (+.5mm) is considered ok
Ahl pistons have passed my abuse test , even with mods (crown flattened 10/1 C/R for boost applications), they even copied Honda packaging, although the last 3 digits never existed in Honda's database
The sleeve I have has had a severe hen pecking, and cannot be saved
FWIW - I've just been in touch with Grant of http://www.nzcylinders.com/index.html asking him a few question on sleeve material
They can do 4032 Aluminium sleeves and then Nikasil coat - I haven't gotten as far as asking the cost though as I think I'm going to wince with pain
MC19 engine chop #3 completed, harmonic balancer / engine coupling spur gears completed today
Picked up a new Staintune display muffler cheap to use on a spare set of MC22 headers that is missing its standard 3 bolt flange. Will just need to have a link pipe and collar welded on so that it functions as a slip on system. Oz made quality and will still end up cheaper than most fleabay alternatives I reckon.
Pulled pit bike out of a lake.....
gave it to the gf as something for her to learn on
she’s doing quite a nice job so far
Tackled the rear caliper for the SRX yesterday... You just have to lovee having the right tools to make a job easier.
This kit and the Ozito heat gun made short work out of getting pistons that wouldnt budge out of their respective bores.
The insides were as expected...
I gave them a good hit in the Ultrasonic but they still need to have the o-ring grooves cleaned up etc.
I managed to kill my old Ozito rotary tool (it is about 10 years old or more and has a hard life) so its off to Bunnings this morning to get a replacement... might even get a real Dremel... lol
I wonder if they are better overall than the Ozito?