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Discussion in 'The Pub' started by kiffsta, Nov 3, 2013.
Tell them it's a rotary.
Today I watched some videos on bike suspension setup and adjusted my suspension.
Previous settings were Max preload, Minimum Rebound and Minimum compression.
Now I have 3 clicks of preload, 3 clicks out compression and 2 rebound. Feels like a different bike.
That sounds dangerously close to what the standard setup recommendation is for normal riding with a 75kg rider.
Getting there... Spent today making manifold stuff! Gave the 3d printer a workout, as well as the abrasive saw, drill press and welder.
Resigned to the fact that I will not have a custom cut cam sprocket for round 1 so I started assembling the primary endurance engine. Backup engine is still dead in the water waiting on parts. Probably should have focused on getting parts for that on the way before I had less than 2 weeks to round 1 Not sure what it is about the KLX110 layout that makes me struggle so much to get the rings in place. Oh right, it's pointless to use a ring compressor because of the tapered bore and there's not enough room to install the wrist pin with the piston already in the cylinder. I'm determined theres a sick hack to getting it done without moving the rings out of orientation, but I've yet to figure it out.
I've considered your conundrum for another purpose - think about an aluminium drink can, the material is incredibly soft, cut cylinder out of can, split down and put a tight sharp lip onto it so that it keeps itself out of the chamfer on the bottom of the bore
Wrap it in a releasable cable tie - you've got a budget ring compressor that will go far enough up into the taper
What a shame, here it is 6pm and I don't have any empty aluminum cans. Bottoms up! It's for the race bike, I swear!
So it's not women but working on bikes that drives men to drink, whooda thunk it - it's for a good cause - bottoms up!
Yeah... I am not 75KG though. I am a lot more than that. But it feels really good like this so I don't know, maybe the previous half dozen owners put some heavier springs in it? It feels about right for me now.
The R6 shock I ordered last time didn't work, had a completely different setup, so I am on the hunt for a better rear shock for it.
I might also go to a 10w or 15w oil in the forks, as well as see if there are any springs that can handle my weight available to buy for the forks. I am also losing weight too, so hopefully that helps.
Sold my bike. Now to buy another... Ok, collect it and make the final payment. VTR 250, because my wrist old.
You might have hit on the right setup for your weight, so don't touch it if it feels right for you. You might not even notice the change the lower viscosity fork oil makes.
Beer can and ziptie worked pretty well. Just enough clearance to wedge one side of the can in with the rings. Might roll a lip onto the can next time to try and keep it from wedging between the cylinder and piston.
Wrapped up the top end, went to put side covers back and realized the clutch arm return spring is busted. Stole the clutch cover of the other engine while I try to source a replacement part. Had to pick up all of the small projects on the lift so I can push the YSR off, and the race bike on. Did the truffle shuffle and managed to get the motors swapped without killing my back. Man I miss having a pancake jack! Floor jack is just too large to throw on the lift. Cleaned the carb ("drained" it last race, but there was still a little varnish in one side.) Pulled about 300cc of gas out of the tank to see how much water/varnish there was. VP Racing MR4 that's at least 18 months old still has a hell of a punch to the nose. Man I wish they could produce scented candles of the same smell. Initial turnover (with spark plug in) by hand feels like it's got the compression it's supposed to have (versus feeling like kicking over like a ysr50 as it did at the end of the last race.
Switched the wiring harness out to the kitaco bits. Discovered the CDI was cracked from the way I was mounting it. Suddenly the "install using tie-wraps" makes sense. If you bolt it to the location where things perfectly line up, the frame weld puts pressure on the case of the CDI and cracks it out. Fortunately it's just the case and didn't effect the potting material/electronics. I'm tempted to kick it over tonight, but going to wait until the morning. When I sleep on things it helps me remember what I forgot to do. As much as I want to heart it BRAAAAAAAAAAAP, I'm going to be patient and make sure I haven't forgotten anything.