test now with some oil in each cylinder. if compression not up is a valve issue. if compression is up is rings or bore.
Hey Stu Life can be a bitch at times, but I would follow riskys format and see what your up against. The leak test may find you doing your valves, a little time consuming but may just get your compression back up to a reasonable level, enough to get it started. Mate, you've come this far, I'd go the next step and see what happens. Keep us posted, we want to hear this running, take it easy.
mate, the rings may be held in the piston grooves with corrosion. my bet is rusty valves. put the squirt of oil in each cylinder and do the compression test. then a shot of ether in each cylinder and see if will start. may pound rust off the valves or ahake the rings loose in the grooves. if will not fire on petrol try a little acetone down the plug hole. dirty trick i know.
It should start with those compression readings. If it has not been started for a long time then you may get a low compression reading due to any number of reasons. The spark plug leads are usually labelled 1, 2, 3, & 4. That is how they should be connected. cylinder 1 being the leftmost then 2 etc. They are labelled for the cylinder that they connect to not the firing order. cheers Blair
Hi Mate, I replaced all the leads so they're not marked (only the markings I put on them) and I do agree with you and Risky it could be a number of things. Time is my enemy now, busy few weeks ahead so I may have to tinker again around my easter holiday. I'm pretty sure I know where the leads go from the coils so we're good there. As for everyone else, thanks heaps for the patience and the help. Unfortunately tinkering from here is going to be a bit more spaced out due to the time it will take (and the fact I just got flooded at work) but I'll keep you all posted. I think checking the valve clearances are next, after I re-perform the compression test dry and wet to doubly check what it could be. It hasn't been run in 18 months-24 months so it could well be a bit of rust somewhere. See how we go.
check the valve clearances first as tight valves would show your symptons. thought you would have checked earlier. particularly inlets.
Nah I wanted to do a compression test first just to get a benchmark. If I had messed with the valves first I wouldn't know if I made it better or worse than what it originally was. I have to buy some feeler gauges and have some more time on my hands too. See how it goes.
give a quick squirt of oil down the cylinders and see if it makes a difference if you are pressed for time.
Interesting news, got her going today with a pretty hefty push start and a keen mate. She does not run that well, but she does go. Hearing that roar down the street at 12,000 rpm was pretty impressive (this thing sounds like a real race bike - was a bit surprised to hear that sound from a stock 250). My mate took her for a run about a km long to get her up to temperature before we stopped to have a closer look. Few issues. Blowing a bit of smoke but I'm not surprised given the compression test and what I already thought was happening at the rings. There is also some crunching noise coming from the clutch which I didn't expect. When she's in third it makes a clicky/grindy kind of noise even with the clutch lever pulled in - may have to dig deeper to see what is going on. She still doesn't start from the starter, probably due to the low compression too. Mate reckons the cam chain may be a little clicky, not sure how to tell if it's stretched? So I'm relieved in some ways to know that with a bit of tinkering at least I know I can only improve the situation! Really have to look at that clutch first, then probably the rings. Getting there... looking forward to the end result!
Good to hear Stu .... Heres the cam chain tensioner ...... the trick is to remove the top plate/bolt (8) to remove the spring first so when u remove the actual CCT the plunger stays as is ......then when its off pull the plunger out to max .... if theres at least a few MMs left then its still tensioning the cam chain ...... if its already at max then the chain will be flapping ...time for a new one. Watch the gasket doesnt fall apart when removing it so u can re use it When u replace the CCT push the plunger right in then bolt it back on ....then put the spring/springs back in the top and replace the plate or bolt to tension it again.
So here's the noise.. It's in third I think, clutch in. Bit weird. Seems to get louder the faster I push it.
Hmm well couldn't replicate it just now, not to that extent anyway. Strange. Nothing in neutral, but 2,3,4 are similar sound (nothing like in the video though, just a bit of a tick). Strange thing was when I was in 2nd with clutch out, I pulled the bike backwards and it almost sounded like the starter motor was spinning. I wonder if the clutch is acting up...
The starter motor has a 'one way' clutch on the end of the crankshaft so that when the engine fires it doesn't try to spin the crap out of the starter motor. I don't know what type your is but they are usually a set of gears or a chain. Easy to check by removing left the engine side cover.
So starting to strip her down now to take a look at the rings to see what is going on. As for that clicking noise... still not sure, but looking at the clutch... is it meant to not be sitting perfectly central on the pin in the middle (see photo)? Doesn't seem right to me... what could be going on there? I also opened up the alternator side to have a look at the starter... looks fine, no stripped gears etc. But when it's in gear and rolling backwards it is definitely winding the starter motor... easy to tell as it is a very distinctive sound. By the way, how do I remove the cam chain tensioner...? do I just unscrew it from the two bolts at the side... (bolt(s) no. 10 in the explosion diagrams above)?
Another question.. which of these bolts holds the top of the engine on? I want to disassemble as little as possible (preferably without taking the cams off) but the drawing seems to show short bolts on the clamps that hold the cams down (bolts 3 & 4)...