Project The Second Fizzer

With asbestos gasket's i'm pretty sure it can't be shipped, and custom's will check it if they suspect it's asbesto's.
A guy i know had a motorbike/quad import shop here in SA (10 year's ago), any disc pad's he bought in had to come with a list of componant's they were made from with the pad's, otherwise custom's wouldn't let them through.

Get some of this for the base gasket if you want to reuse it, it use to be called TorqueTite
VHT Copper Gasket Cement maintains excellent adhesion under severe pressure and heat fluctuations. This high metallic formula assures tight seals on cork, paper and metal gaskets. It also is an excellent seal for threaded fittings and pressure hose connectors.
I've used it a lot on old gasket's, including head (copper and alloy) and base gasket's in various 2 and 4 stroke motorcycle's and on my car engine's too.


Older style can

 

I've bought it at repco, but supercheap and most part's place's sell it
http://www.supercheapauto.com.au/Product/DupliColor-Copper-Gasket-Cement-340gm/423834

 

Have you honed the cylinder's already ?

 

What are the ring's going to bed into then, a smooth shiny glazed bore ?
Honing help's to hold oil on the cylinder bore while the ring's bed in too
It'll smoke and use oil if you don't hone the bore's, i've seen in quite a bit with pit bike engine's

It wont need a coarse hone, just enough to deglaze it

 

With a brand new engine in a car or bike it is honed before it is assembled
You can usually see what's left of the hone mark's when rebuilding an old engine especially down in the lower part's of the bore
As the bore get's used it can wear in different area's leaving high's and low's up and down the bore due to different area's heating up etc etc
If it wasn't run in properly to start with this can cause excessive ring leakage which build's up heat in the piston's and can cause them to slightly warp and the heat can transfer into the bore's, which could lead to scuffing of the piston's and even warping the bore's.

During the ring/bore running in the engine need's to be alternatively revved hard to load it up in the mid/high gear's and then let the engine do some hard braking too to keep the pressure up between the ring's and bore/s.
Ring's are forced out into the bore wall's by the high combustion chamber pressure in the higher rpm's creating a better seal,
if you're running in an engine at lower rev's the ring's don't have a lot of pressure holding them out against the bore.
The hard engine braking help's out by creating a higher vacuum on decell and suck's the excess oil and particle's of ring/bore to clean it out of the ring's and blow it out the exhaust instead of it all clogging up in between the ring's and ring groove's which also help to stop excessive wear.

80% of the ring/bore break in is done in the first hour of use, so an oil change after that is recommended, plus another after the next couple of hour's

Have a read through Blair's thread -http://2fiftycc.com/index.php?threads/hone-fit-new-rings.2939/


The pit bike engine's that i have seen blowing smoke and using oil are not just the cheap average 125's etc, a lot of them are in competition pit bike's, race engine's with big bore kit's and ported aftermarket big valve head's, stainless valve's, h/duty spring's titanium retainer's etc etc
A decent top end kit can cost over $1000 and up, and that is for a single cylinder engine, you can spend $5000 or more on some of the better top end kit's from Takegawa etc

 

There so many thing's to take into account when rebuilding an engine
Like with a used cylinder there is bound to be some warpage due to heat, especially where the liner is supported by the cylinder block/casting where it meet's the area of the bore which is a lot thinner and back's onto water jacket area's
When you are running in your ring's/piston's etc in a freshly honed bore, there is a head bolted and torqued down onto the top of the cylinder/s which could cause a very slight misalignment of the bore
I don't know if the manufacturer's would use a torque plate bolted to the top of the cylinder when they first machined it ?
But little thing's like that could make a difference
It all come's down to the way the engine is first run in, you can have 2 bike's exactly the same and one feel's like and does, have more power than the other.
The initial running in procedure was the difference.

I had my first 351 Cleveland rebuilt over 25 year's ago by a good mechanic/drag racer.
He asked me to come back when i'd done around 20km's, we took to car out for a drive and he asked me to plant it down the street through 3 and 4th gear's.
I was surprised that he wanted me to rev it out through the gear's considering how new the engine was, but he explained that in doing so it forces the ring's out in to the bore's and help's bed the ring's in.
He also mentioned that car's that had been run in using the 'take it easy' method can end up being oil burner's due to the ring's running up and down the bore's with not a lot of combustion pressure forcing them outward's
When ring's are fitted to the piston's they get slightly out of shape when you open them up to slip them on, this causes some area's of the ring's to not seal against the bore properly
Giving it more rev's force's them out due to compression, and the heat also make's the ring's conform to the round bore.
And with a honed bore there is a little more oil there to help wash away the fine particle's of ring etc out through the exhaust.
I have seen a couple of engine's that have been babied most of their life, they can have lower compression due to the ring's not sealing properly which cause's engine to 'breathe more' and use oil.
After pulling them down you can see the burnt oil stain's under the ring land's of the piston's, and the ring land's can be caked in oil/carbon too
This sort of stuff isn't good for engine life.

Glazing in the bore's is a term i use lightly, usually to describe a shiny smooth, almost polished surface where the ring's have been run in the bore/s


I wouldn't like to hear my machinist tell me 'that's just how it's done', if he couldn't explain it to me in simple term's he doesn't understand it properly.
I don't have any qualification's at all, i just use my experiance's to learn how to do what i do,
beside's the first 2-3 year's of junior primary school i have never sat down and read a book cover to cover.
I have a lack of concentration for that sort of stuff, my brain is alway's thinking of a hundred other thing's at once.
When i am reading stuff i seem to find myself skipping sentence's here and there and i'm trying to work out the 'short version' (trying to get to the point of the whole thing)
I can read a whole paragraph of writing, get to the end and not remember many detail's of what i've just read, sometime's i have to read it over and over again.
I kind of bluffed my way through school, i'm not sure how i even just passed year 10.
Some of my reply's here will take me 3 or 4 edit's to say what i want to say too.


I've been pretty lucky to have work done by people who know what they're doing, and i usually ask them what's involved and why.
My machinist is a champion, i don't know if i've mentioned it before but his brother used to race motorcross on a Yamaha year's ago and Dave would build/maintain his engine's.
His brothers' bike was alway's very competitive and infront of the Yamaha factory race bike's, when Dave was working on it in the pit's the Yamaha team mechanic's were alway's coming over and watching over his shoulder trying to work out why his brother's bike was so much better than their's.
Dave has a few secret's that he's learnt over the year's which gave him the edge
But yeah, sometime's thing's stick in my memory but it's usually stuff that i've learnt from my practical experience's

 

Just thinking anotherbthing to look out for with your cylinder is the ring markings in the bore's.
If you have a marking where the top ring sit's at tdc of the cylinder that's ok.
But if there is a second mark below from the second ring that can cause problems.
If there is a wear mark from the second ring, when you fit new rings and rebuild the engine the top ring will run across the wear mark and cause the top ring to wear, causing compression loss and blow by.
I n worst cases it can also cause the top ring lands in the piston to fail.

The only way around this is for a rebore and oversie piston and rings.

 

A little off to the side, but a story about glazing.
Back in the early 1960's my eldest uncle worked for the Holden dealership in Glen Innes. In those days cars were driven from the Sydney factory. My uncle and three other mechanics would catch the overnight train to Sydney, pick up the cars and drive home. New owners could also drive their new 'pride and joy' home from the factory. These were the 'grey' motors, all cast iron.
The mechanics would drive gently to Newcastle, then it was a race all the way back to Glen Innes. These vehicles never had any problems with the bores. The cars driven gently all the way home by their new owners would be back in the workshop within a couple of months to have the bores de-glazed and new rings fitted because they were burning oil. After the rebuild the mechanics would drive to Tenterfield and back at a 'spirited' pace and the cars would have no more problems.
The break-in of the bores/rings is very important to the life of an engine.