seems odd that some people are good with 10.5 above and some on the line , in theory why wouldn't they just make the line 10.5 higher
When Ive researched it before thats exactly been my thoughts also. .... yes it has viton thru them and the float needles wernt replaced.
Consider that Mikuni carb was likely chosen from a number of candidates and wasn't produced specifically for the 250 Fizzer, so the float bowl casting line is just a reference
yea good point ruckus ...... knew there had to be some logic there somewhere. I was just looking at the 400 manual and it says 4.5 - 6.5 below the float chamber line ..... different carbs but enforces your point
I think Ill put 2 marks on the tube 10.5mm apart and obviously line up the bottom mark against the reference line and see how much they are out for starters. Whats it like to walk outside with your riding kit on and put the key in the ignition and ride away?
The bodies are all the same otherwise they would not take the same float bowl gasket, so the fuel level height should be the same for all BDST carbs, or am I missing something?
Yes .... and as u mentioned , the level on the 2 carb spec sheets in Japanese say 9.2mm The English spec sheet says 10.5mm None of them say above or below the line. Heres the 400 manual....it shows a 'range' not an exact measurement.
i read somewhere the float on the 2kr is between 10-15 mm above not 100% on those numbers but it was variable
Some odd translation going on there but thats how I read it also. As I mentioned earlier the 3LN specs dont say above or below the magic line.
Well to clarify for you guys, because I went through the precise same confusion, my bike was neglected, and not too badly actually, it was at least indoors. It wasn't molested or tampered with and that was simple enough to tell from the condition of the screw and bolt heads. Also my carbs were cleaned one after the other, so all parts when back into the exact carb they came out of. Anyway, so when I measured my float heights they all measured up at 10.5mm above the line and all of the needle and seat valves worked properly upon first re-assembly. Remember I was measuring what I had, and I drained and refilled each carb for each measurement. Remember also that you're measuring from the bottom of the meniscus which in a piece of 4mm tube is quite pronounced. I hope this eliminates some of the confusion. I know I went through it before I bit the bullet, made the jig and did the measurements. peace out
i just used a ruler from the line to the fuel level , im pretty sure mine were all different this only affects the carbs at some points not knowing too much about carbs i cant say where and why i just know the end result and how to get away with it (at a loss of mileage if it floods of course )
By any standard, Ruckus' post about the distance being above is logical. If he were wrong, then his fuel level would be 21mm too high and fuel would be pouring out of the overflows. The numbers and details from the 400 1WG or 250 2KR have to be ignored because they are different carburettors. It would be interesting to know if the fuel level shown in the attached image is the correct one. Anyone have clear plastic float bowls? cheers Blair
See thru bowls ... now wouldnt that be a blessing .... u could see the fuel level as well as the crud level. What do u mean by 'overflows' ? Where would excess fuel end up ? (fuel tap off and engine not running) Down the chute into the engine?
Oops! I'm probably wrong there. It looks like the float bowl vents seem to be pointing up in the 3LN1 parts diagram. They are the Tee pieces with OR-007 on them in the LiteTek diagram.
You could set the fuel level to the line, however that would significantly alter the vacuum pressure needed to draw fuel. Not something I'd personally recommend. However if you do, then I'd recommend doing an immediate set of plug chops at 1/4 throttle, 1/2 throttle, 3/4 throttle and full throttle. Running lean will grenade an engine real quick. Needle and seat valves not working needs to be fixed ASAP because you could end up with a hydrolock, so fix that first. BTW the float may have pinholes, so check that in hot water. Again my observations were just of my carbs, which whilst filthy were untampered and unmolested. I got the fuel height from one of he 3ln documents someone posted, which is for a later model with a frame starting 3ln-350101. The numbers tallied except for the starter jet which was 42.5 for the later models and 37.5 actually installed in mine. My parts are due to arrive today, so with any luck I'll be able to actually ride it in the next few days and feel the state of tune, up till now, it's been revved in neutral, so the engine spools up and that's all I actually know. BTW the float bowl breathers would be the overflows on these carbs if they were angled differently, so the fuel will go down into the engine via the pilot system first as that's the lower point. peace out
Hi there mate, I had the exact issue you are having a while ago and this is how I got my bike going. My issue with the bike not revving once warm was the valves. I'm not sure if you mentioned that you did your valves on this bike yet but once I adjusted them I no longer had the issue. Found that one intake valve had pretty much no gap, as soon as the engine got warm everything just got too tight. I have the 3LN3 and found that the float hight on the model is an absolute bitch. My floats are adjusted so low that it looks like the float valves dont even open. I dont have the exact specs on my float height but please try this: Check your valves gaps. Lower your floats as low as they will go.