I got it from a parts guy in the UK only cuz it was in an order I was doing anyway..... I think it was 6 or 7 bucks. This guy .... he can get most things .... more than what he lists on ebay. http://stores.ebay.com.au/arthursbikespares/ As it would be something that would be used in 101 Yammy machines it would be worth checking a local Yam dealer for availability/price http://www.ebay.com.au/sch/i.html?_...tery+strap&_nkw=yamaha+battery+strap&_sacat=0
Dont worry boss , my engineer put it on the list when u posted it earlier ..... Maybe cuz this thread has turned into a Ben Hur trilogy some have missed a few postings Replies: 365 Views: 6,236
That's exactly right. I follow a few threads on a car site I am a member of, and some if those threads, 3 off the top of my head are around the 1200-1500 posts range. With 90k in views. 1 is a bigger budget build, but the others are simply good reads and a lot of interest with the cars & build directions. And trust me things get lost in 1000s of posts!
Ok this is all getting a bit weird now. The wiring diagram for the FZR600 has the power wire from the fuel pump running into the 'main relay' mmmmmm!!!! I think Ruckus has nailed something. A 'main relay' sounds like a single point of failure, much like the registry in microsoft windows. Main relay gets hot and stops supplying power to the fuel pump, and bingo.
It should not be the charge rate if the battery has enough beans. But having said that anything is possible isn't it. Here is the fuel pump system and troubleshooting pages for a 600 http://commline.com/FZR/600/MANUAL/FZR600 Supplement RB-RBC pt 2.pdf Trouble is that the static tests are useless unless the fault is present and that does not happen until the bike has been running for a while. At least it indicates what parts are involved. I would like to know how the digital igniter unit switches the fuel pump relay on and off. Or should I say how it decides when to switch it on or off.
Just noticed this thread http://fzr250.com/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=3582 Someone posts that you don't need the fuel pump on the 3LNs as the tank is high enough.
I would like to go on record to say the Windows registry is just misunderstood, rumors are it wont be around in future Windows versions.
I forgot to add in my post, I didn't have a fuel pump, because I don't have one and even the tank which is being cleaned through electrolysis is off, instead I have a 1 litre can with a fuel line and breather sitting on the airbox using purely gravity feed for fuel supply. So discount the fuel pump from the equation altogether. It's something to do with the 12 volt line, via the fuse to/from the battery causing the weirdness on my machine. My symptoms were exactly what Grey has been enduring. The co-incidence make me feel awful to begin with, knowing what he's gone through so far. I had it pinned at full throttle, though it was barely idling, with one hand whilst checking things with the multimeter with the other hand. This went on for a good five minutes. Then I touched the fuse wires and got quite a fright when it wound up to 16K all of a sudden. One other thing to note on my machine is the run switch is a tiny bit sensitive, it needs to be flicked on with authority to make good contact - the EXUP valve motor sometimes doesn't complete it's initiation sequence if it's turned on gently. Something I have to investigate. I've been through almost the same process as Grey, with carbs being the last piece I just re-fitted, so I was also thinking fuel supply initially, but this weirdness is electrical. - I would hypothesise a a contact keeping 12 volts but limiting current, or breaking down just enough under load to keep things running, but still not supplying enough current to run properly. peace out
It was always a beautiful single point of failure, such an elegant design which has stolen years of my life that I will never recover. I used to be 6'4" blonde, with a full head of hair before I started working on computers, now I'm 5'10" and threadbare - thanks Bill
Thats interesting with the 600 and that there is a seperate relay for the pump ..... 250 only has 1 main relay (unless Im missing something) and I tried to swap that out but sadly my spare is dead. Ive read alot of posts on FZR250.com and 99% of posters over the years are just gun ho 'try anything' cowboys. Im always a believer that the Japanese engineers do things for a reason , and usually the right reason , especially if its a model thats evolved over a few years.(thats just a generalisation , not aimed at u Blair in anyway!) But its certainly on the list to see how it runs bypassing the pump ..... theres always the chance both of mine are history. This I found interesting ..... I too have wondered how it operates ..... what happens at half throttle or full throttle? .... I would think the pump would be running full steam while accelerating at high speed. Its amazing Ruckus that u have experienced what seems the same problem ..... I certainly didnt 'rebuild' my wiring loom but redid alot of connections and shoddy PO workmanship but as we know just cuz it looks good doesnt equate to working 100%. At least knowing your experiences will keep me from going totally insane. I also learnt how to test double ended coils correctly .... and they seem fine with the static testing but who knows under load and heat. http://fzronline.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=5&t=11429&sid=aa22d543736a2927876bb4f6f55dc127 First thing I need to do is strip down the petcock as I think there may be a blockage there after I let it run dry and the internal filter had fallen out ....... or just run fuel straight to the carbs bypassing everything to start the process of elimination. and risky ..... contact cleaner is on the shopping list.
Priceless I am with you Mr Grey, I also believe that the engineers at the factory have a reason for doing things, I was just letting you know that you can do the test without needing another tank. Now back to the task at hand. Can anyone shed light on how, as outlined in Ruckus' case, the ignition unit is controlling engine speed. I can only think it is by holding the engine at full retard or more. Perhaps also cutting spark intermittently. Beyond that I have no idea. What signals the ignition unit to allow the engine to increase rpm? What is it waiting for, a bus? Perhaps it needs a good charging system in order to protect something (itself?) from being fried. Without a known functioning ignition unit you might not be able to find the problem Mr Grey because your bike only goes into the dead zone after it is hot. cheers
if it is like in the video and as soon as you let the throttle go it dies then its your carb floats (flooding), i have the same problem . odly i dont think it has anything to do with it being hot or cold . any time it happens to me i just crank the engine till it burns up the excess and revs up again ( at the cost of killing my battery , ill be getting a lithium soon anyway ). just dont wanna mess with my floats ill get em done soon i have seen this problem alot in the fizzers and can almost guarantee its your floats
grey, re the contact cleaner...i have many cans of kal-gard here but suggest jaycar. they have 2 , one has lube with it. 11.20$. the honda i had in tamworth gave me the shites till i hit every connection with the cleaner and when got there murdo helped me out as front brake switch was not working. bike electrics urinate me off.