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Project Bought my R6 back.

Discussion in 'Other Projects - Other Bikes (non 250's)' started by Linkin, Sep 5, 2018.

  1. Linkin

    Linkin The Apprentice Premium Member Dirty Wheel Club Contributing Member

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    My Bike:
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    Going into work tomorrow, got a lot of jobs to do on this bike, it's going to be a bit of a mission... this is my list...

    Fork seals/bushings/oil
    Front & rear wheel bearings + rear disc
    +4 deg. advance ignition rotor + gasket
    Measure valve clearances & replace tensioner + gaskets
    Replace fairing/windscreen bolts.

    Doubt I will get it all done, but I'd like to do the tensioner at least... the current one is installed upside down... It even has the word 'UP' cast into the body... how hard is it FFS... this poor motor has definitely been subjected to some self appointed, youtube trained 'mechanical genius' at some point.
     
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  2. my67xr

    my67xr Bike Enthusiast Staff Member Premium Member Contributing Member

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    With the ignition advance, are you just filing the mounting hole's in the pick up coil to advance it ?
    My FZR needed the hole's filed out 3mm to give it 5 degree's advance
     
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  3. Linkin

    Linkin The Apprentice Premium Member Dirty Wheel Club Contributing Member

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    I'm replacing the standard timing rotor with an aftermarket one, they come in -2 (For California models), +2, +4 and +6 degrees of advance.

    The +6 is a bit crazy and I'm not prepared to run only 98 octane, and also it gets hot in this country, so I opted for the +4. It cost me about $50 from the UK as Factory Pro don't make theirs any more and no one has any stock. Lucky I found another mob on ebay that make and sell them. https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/153256967768

    The only reason I got one is because the bike is sluggish at low revs, by all accounts I've read, the +4 rotor gives it a bit more poke down low, and makes stuff all difference at the top end.
     
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  4. Linkin

    Linkin The Apprentice Premium Member Dirty Wheel Club Contributing Member

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    Got a fair bit done today, but in the end I didn't have time to do the valve clearances or the fork seals. Oh well, I have to save some work, I still have a year to go before I can legally ride the bike on the road.

    New brake reservoir fitted

    OUkUtOF.jpg


    New sidestand springs, the old ones were a bit tired

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    Rear wheel seal put up a fight with the seal puller. In the end, a standard pry bar got the job done.

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    Pulling the needle roller out of the sprocket side of the wheel

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    Pressing out old sprocket carrier bearing

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    Pressed the new one in and fitted the seal

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    Other side rear bearing and new disc

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    Back in the bike

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    Front wheel bearings were not much better

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    Fitted new ignition rotor (and lifted the inlet chain guide up & fitted the pin)

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    New CCT. Old one was notchy and had been fitted upside down.

    48AgP9m.jpg
     
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  5. Linkin

    Linkin The Apprentice Premium Member Dirty Wheel Club Contributing Member

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    Mmmm, shiny new bolts :)

    9g9YEKp.jpg

    zfZfXa3.jpg
     
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  6. ShaneP

    ShaneP Well-Known Member Premium Member Contributing Member

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    I was surprised that it needed advancing for down low, must have a large step in advancing the spark when the revs come up.

    I'm a campaigner for 98 in bikes, I'm sick of cleaning gunky carbies. And the stink gives me headaches.
     
  7. Linkin

    Linkin The Apprentice Premium Member Dirty Wheel Club Contributing Member

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    The R6 has a CDI ignition and '3D' advance. It runs a throttle position sensor on the carbs, so the amount of timing depends on engine speed and throttle position. Possibly rear wheel/gearbox speed as well, I'll have read the manual.

    Fuel is cheap at the moment, I drained the R6's tank and refilled it with fresh 98 at work, the old stuff went into a jerry can for the ZXR.
     
  8. Linkin

    Linkin The Apprentice Premium Member Dirty Wheel Club Contributing Member

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    Booked in a track day at SMSP (or Eastern Creek as we know it). 9th of Feb.

    Waiting on some axle guards & braided lines to arrive, will probably do fork seals and adjust steering head as well.

    Oh and I'll need a new lid, my Arai is getting on a bit and probably wouldn't pass scrutineering.

    Excited!
     
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  9. Andych

    Andych Well-Known Member Premium Member

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    Do you get your Full License back by then @Linkin?
    Hope your back will handle it OK.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
     
  10. Linkin

    Linkin The Apprentice Premium Member Dirty Wheel Club Contributing Member

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    No I'll have to trailer it there and back.

    Back has been fine on the R6 when I've sat on it in the workshop, the seat is much higher up, I can grip the tank with my legs better and relax my back/shoulders/arms - couldn't do it on the ZXR
     
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  11. Linkin

    Linkin The Apprentice Premium Member Dirty Wheel Club Contributing Member

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    Got stuck into the bike today... Fork oil/seals, brake line kit and a generaly tidy up. Gave the headlights another polish, this time with some mechanical assistance and they came out looking way better.

    vlWGGWM.jpg

    Headlights before... a bit cloudy. Lost my 'after' shot but they are clear as glass.

    EvPQ1u3.jpg

    @GreyImport Everyone's favourite job. I cheated by not removing the chrome tubes until I needed to drive the seals and dust caps in, by that point the bottoms were cleaned out and back on.

    shNZZZz.jpg

    Upon removing the dust caps - bits of rag stuffed under to hide the leaks. Left fork basically had no 'oil' (more like grey watery stinky sludge), the right was OK. This bike came with a service receipt claiming that the fork seals and oil levels were inspected... yeah right!

    KtbmDiY.jpg

    The circlips were very rusty, one broke but the other cleaned up OK. I had ordered two new ones but only received one. When I get the other I'll pop the dust seal out and replace it.

    OhQzsRO.jpg

    The rest of my day was spent cleaning disgusting forks and having a shitfight with the front brake line kit, but I got it all done. Fitted front & rear axle sliders for the track as well.

    cW0nDRn.jpg

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    Excuse the fingers over the lens

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    Last things to do before the track day are replace the front & rear pad sets, drain/flush the coolant and refill with soft water til the track day is done. Pumped!
     
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  12. Linkin

    Linkin The Apprentice Premium Member Dirty Wheel Club Contributing Member

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    Front & Rear pads done. Test rode around parking lot after all the bikes were pushed in for the day - BIG difference in front brake feel and much better stopping ability. The old pads were obviously shot. Rear feels a lot more solid as well.

    Last job before the trackday is some cooling system servicing. I was going to just flush the system and fill with water, but in the end I sprung for a new radiator. OEM was $380USD, so I went for the $150 'Aussie made' (in china) special, and a set of silicone radiator hoses, and a bottle of cooling system flush.

    Though, dropping the radiator would be a good opportunity to check/adjust the valve clearances and inspect the timing chain as well. How deep does the rabbit hole go? Guess I'll find out :prankster:
     
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  13. Linkin

    Linkin The Apprentice Premium Member Dirty Wheel Club Contributing Member

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    Track day done! It was awesome, but I had a near fail to launch. Charging system has gone crook on me and I lost all power. I was able to get it going again by disconnecting the headlights and trickle charging the batt between sessions. Kicking myself for not giving the charging system some more attention prior, but it will get it now.

    Wasn't the only one to suffer a charging system issue that day either - bloke in the next pit on a GSXR600 had his battery die on him.

    Only downside was mongs taking the factory Ducati bikes around in the slow group, which I put myself in as I had no delusions of granduer conserning my on track abilities, but even I put them to shame. Pin it every straight bit, slow down to a near dead stop on every corner and wobbling about afraid to lean the bikes over! :commando:

    ZgYvz4z.jpg

    My counterpart. Bloke next to him had a black 06 R6 as well but was in a different group.

    vn3lTmV.jpg


    There was a photographer there but the snaps aren't available yet, and I'll have to purchase them, so tyre pics will have to do.

    After 1st session. Not confident on the right handers. Pressure in the front was too high at 32/30, dropped to 30/30.

    dM2Pe6a.jpg

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    2nd Session

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    3rd Session

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    4th Session

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    5th and final session. Progressively got more confident on the right handers. By this point I was hard on the stoppers, especially turn 2 and the 2nd last before the straight (hairpin). May have started to turn the front discs a little bit blue :oops:

    URiU04R.jpg

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  14. maelstrom

    maelstrom LiteTek Staff Member Premium Member 250cc Vendor Contributing Member

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    Well you didn't poke a rod out nor crash so it was a good day.
     
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  15. GreyImport

    GreyImport Administrator Staff Member The Big Cheese Contributing Member

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    Im glad u took off the p plate before u went out on track :D:fuckyou:
     
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  16. ShaneP

    ShaneP Well-Known Member Premium Member Contributing Member

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    Are you hooked, now?
     
  17. Linkin

    Linkin The Apprentice Premium Member Dirty Wheel Club Contributing Member

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    It wouldn't pass scrutineering with it on :fuckyou:

    You know it
     
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  18. Linkin

    Linkin The Apprentice Premium Member Dirty Wheel Club Contributing Member

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    OK gents, need some assistance.

    Found a 2nd hand genuine shindengen fh020aa reg/rec off a triumph tiger 1050 on ebay and bought it.

    Now I need to find a set of connectors for it that don't cost the earth. My google/ebay - fu is not returning any good results.
     
  19. my67xr

    my67xr Bike Enthusiast Staff Member Premium Member Contributing Member

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    They're Furukawa connector's used on the Shindengen reg/rect, i think the only place in Australia that may keep the genuine one's is Small Coil Rewind's in Geelong
    Give them a call ?

    otherwise there's a few for sale on ebay, and ebay china

    Ebay US, $52AU inc delivery
    https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/FURUKAW...0:g:qVMAAOSwmLlX30L0:rk:1:pf:1&frcectupt=true

    Chinese made connector's, $13.80 inc delivery ebay Sydney
    https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Car-Regulator-ABS-Plastic-12V-Rectifier-Electric-Connector-Kit-For-Honda-HB7/163324844828?_trkparms=aid=777003&algo=DISCL.MBE&ao=1&asc=20140117125611&meid=c79f4c591e7943f9994f96d2200d2a51&pid=100009&rk=1&rkt=3&sd=132742624358&itm=163324844828&_trksid=p2047675.c100009.m1982

    China ebay, $7 inc delivery
    https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Voltage...h=item1ee813b466:g:nRMAAOSw4QRbcW-f:rk:6:pf:0



    Or some more genuine connector's from US, $15.95US for the pair plus post ($3.95US for USPS First Class or Priority) and they have Paypal too
    http://www.cycleterminal.com/furukawa-qlw-250.html

    Furukawa-connector-for-Shindengen-R&R-FH020-FH012-FH011-FH010-FH009-rectifier-regulator.jpg
    You can also buy just the crimp on terminal's ( .48c US each) and silicon seal's ( .49c / .52c ea) from them too, down the bottom of the page, if you can find some secondhand plug's and don't want to solder the wire's to stator/battery loom

    Furukawa-QLW-F-300.jpg
    QLW-W-300-wire-seal-for-Shindengen-R&R-connector.jpg Furukawa-QLW-W-D.jpg
     
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    Last edited: Feb 11, 2019
  20. Linkin

    Linkin The Apprentice Premium Member Dirty Wheel Club Contributing Member

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