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Discussion in 'Other Projects - Other Bikes (non 250's)' started by Linkin, Sep 5, 2018.
Whose that handsome fellow on that beautiful bike?
Replaced with an FH020AA mosfet reg/rec with modern sealed connections, and joined to the wiring harness. Only crimped connections for now as I ran out of time to pull the loom out and solder it properly. It's in a terrible spot for a solder job.
I've had to leave the original reg/rec where it is and temporarily zip tie the new unit to the left hand side of the rear subframe... at least it will get some airflow there.
Lights plugged back in and a solid 14.15V at idle to 5,000rpm. Manual states 14V at 5,000RPM so I'm calling this one a win
Something was still niggling me about the charging system.
Did some reading on early R6 charging systems, kept coming across people saying that the connector to the stator from the harness is known for cooking itself, and that the white wires in the harness are not up to scratch.
Wouldn't you know, that's exactly what I found. So while this connection was 'working' - I doubt it would have lasted if put into daily service.
Even with all that, the stator has tested OK. Even resistance across windings, even voltage output, no shorts to earth.
good catch, could be what fried the regulator in the first place??
I'm not so sure it's cooked, two phases shorting together would certainly reduce available power. Still, a modern reg/rec upgrade is a must on any older bike, if only for the waterproof connectors.
Linkin, what does "not up to scratch" mean? Is the white wire gauge too narrow, thick; was it a design issue?
Basically yes the wires are not up to the current output and the connector forms a high resistance joint, so it all melts. Wires on the stator side are fine
So the crispy reg/rec, wires, and plugs have been donated to one of my TAFE teachers as an example of what happens when your charging system goes horribly wrong
Hoping to do some work to the bike this weekend...
Imgur is not playing nice again so I can't upload any images, but today I pulled the bike apart down to the valve cover.
Clearances are in spec, just, but the bike was not totally stone cold. I will change the shims at a later date. New gaskets fitted.
Ran a cooling system flush through the bike, didn't seem to do much. Old rad was rusty inside, as is the water jacket in the head. Thermostat tested OK.
Replaced the radiator with a new aftermarket unit along with all the rad hoses for silicon ones... except that one hose was the wrong size, so I'll have to contact the manufacturer. It was the lower hose from the water pump to the oil cooler. The diameter is incorrect so it won't fit over the outlet on either end.
Carbs, the pilots were at 3 turns out each. Standard is two turns. I reset them to 2.75 turns out for now. Although the pilots were rich, when I had the bike previously I adjusted the floats. Today I adjusted them back. No one had been in there since I did by the looks of it, fairly clean and all the float bowl screws came off, though some put up a fight, all surrended to the JIS driver and a tap with the hammer and a firm undoing.
I checked the cylinder head manifolds and they are leaking quite badly when spraying brake cleaner on them. They aren't cracked or porous, but they are leaking on the sealing surface to the head. The o-rings go flat over age, same as on the ZXR. A new set is $200 USD from the usual suspects so I'll try to find a cheaper place to get the OEM part.
Fitted some pretty trick Ariete gel grips... with "YZF-R6 Performance" molded into them. Quite nice.
Test ride - bike runs better down low, less lumpy and smoother, picks up faster at low revs. Seems we had a lean & rich thing going on... too much fuel, air leaks, and wrong float height.
The clutch is sticking badly though, really rough to engage/disengage and with the bike in gear, engine off, clutch pulled in, I cannot roll the bike forward or back. Even trying to force it to unstick the plates results in a dead stop or turning the motor. So another job for the list.
Finally getting some movement on this bike. Since getting the bandit it has been sitting under a cover at home, as I had to remove it from work... only started it up once since then.
I have a whole heap of rubber parts waiting to go on. Ordered a timing chain for it last week.
It needs the chain, clearances, carb tune/balance, fresh fluids all around to get it ready for when I have get my full license. Probably a clutch as well. Maybe another track day before then when the weather gets a bit warmer.
Watch this space
Got the R6 dropped off at work today... spent a few hours getting it to this point.
Got tools everywhere...
Note: Silicon rubber doesn't mix well with fuel
Tomorrow I do the valve clearances
Got the clearances done and new timing chain in yesterday. Grateful that the chain is on the right hand side of the engine - it can be replaced without splitting it / and a new endless chain fitted.
Had to replace the bolt which holds the timing rotor onto the crank, as the bolt was stretched and likely to break.
Will be slowly getting it back together during the week after work and replacing bits as I need. First up new throttle and clutch cables.
Placed final megazip order today, the last bits I need to have the bike ready for next month.
Not long to go!
Bought myself a little something... Healtech iQSE-2 quickshifter unit
My thoughts as well... especially after seeing the results of hitting a false neutral at high revs when using a quick-shifter... it was expensive...
For fun. Never ridden a bike with a quickshifter and wanted to try it... sounds awesome and you can change up gears without having to back off the throttle for track/race use.
I am wary of potential gearbox problems, the ignition cut times are auto-adjusting and can also be set manually per gear / at specific rpm
I know if you don't cut the ignition for long enough you can destroy the gear dogs, so again I will be very wary when setting it up.
Got a lot of jobs that needed doing out of the way
Adjusted steering head
Adjusted & aligned the chain with a laser (the best way, swingarm graduations are not accurate)
Replaced timing cover gasket & bolt for the timing rotor
Rewired dodgy tail light and wired up the BMW LED rear indicators
Replaced crank breather hose
Quickshifter kit is on the way
50ms should do it.
The automatic setup on the healtech has intervals of 50-80ms so I'd say they're being conservative, they wouldn't want to be responsible for people destroying gearboxes