Any idea where the broken piece of carb is? I'd be willing to wager It's possibly stoping the slide from moving so you'll have to have to pull them apart and look inside!
I was lucky, the broken piece didn't fall down into the carb. It was sitting onto of the slide. But realistically I should be pulling them apart any how. Because the bike just won't idle by its self. You need to have the choke pulled on all the way. And as soon as you let it off the bike dies. I tries turning the idle screw but it makes no difference. The throttle is very heavy too. It doesn't move smoothly. All more reasons to pull them off and sort them out or just replace them.
I think your set of carbs are salvageable If you can get that screw out intact it looks like your airbox rubber will still seal ok and you should have enough thread to screw the airbox down. My plan of attack would be to pull the float bowls and clean all your jets inspect diaphrams and so on. put it back together to see if you can get it running on 4 cylinders.
If you look about the screw hole. That's the hole. Is in the actual carbi wall. I had the same thought as you. I am going to try and get some liquid alloy or steel cement and see if I can plug the hole. If I can't I will need the carb replaced.
Oh does that little hole go straight thru? Selleys nead it steel might do the trick you just want to be absolutely positive it cant come lose
Ok so update time. The bike starts. And kind of idles. Even with new carbs the second header was cold. My mate showed me a trick to pull all the crap through the jet and "vacuum" clean the carbi. So when I did was had the bike at about 4k revs and put my hand over the carb make an air tight seal and you will feel your hand get wet with fuel. Then take your hand off. When I did this the bike revved harder and the 2nd header heated up straight away. After I did that a couple times I tried to rev the bike. And all 4 cylinders were firing. Revved clean all the way to 14-15k. Man I was happy to hear it rev. When the old carbs were on if I touched the throttle it would bog down. But not now. Let the bike idle to warm up. That's when I notice the thermo fan didn't engage. It almost got the the red part of the temp gauge. When I shut it off the over flow bottle was boiling hot. So I'm not sure if it's the thermo stat or the thermo fan. But I will volt meter the fan and see if it works. And I will test the stat after work.
Ok so I have a couple of questions. Could I possibly get the dimensions of the the tank bracket that goes across the battery for an A model. Or would someone have a spare one that they are willing to sell? The other thing is. Would a fail a roady if the windscreen of the bike is old and has that discolouration in it?
As a screen on a bike is not something u actually look thru to see where your going ,unlike a car of course , unless it was badly cracked or a piece broken off , I would think its ok. Dont know how strict they are up in banana land though ! As far as your fan goes , on the Fizzer it has to sit and get pretty warm before it comes on. Check the wiring at the fan switch. But I think you have other problems if the gauge is going high and its bubbling . Id say new thermostat and also check the cap to see if its holding pressure. If u havnt done it already , flush out the cooling system ....remove a couple of houses to get any crap and coolant out. Dont forget the air bleeder valve. Put some of this in and make sure there no air in the system ...... fill it up then run the bike just for a minute and get it circulating and check to see if it needs a top up .....watch the pressure on the cap when u remove it.
[QUOTE="Dont know how strict they are up in banana land though ![/QUOTE] banana land .. HMmm, lets not mention State Of Origin
I just watched a replay this morning of NSW flogging Queensland in the Lingerie League. Too bad they weren't using whips. I think they need to get Big Mal in to coach next season.
if the switch is gone and the fan is fine, buy a manual switch for 3 bucks, it is good in the hot weather. also i dont think discoloration is a problem but i remember hearing a crack wont pass roadworthy.
I don't think that's a good thing tho. I would prefer my fan to come on well before then. But the cooling system is in need of a flush tho. I check the overflow and it was just water no coolant what so ever. So I will drop all the water that's in the system. Put the nulon mix stuff in and hook up a fab switch I think. Jobs for the weekend. The bike and I had another disagreement today. I had it idling and running. Then all of a sudden it was down that same cylinder again. It had me stumped. I could figure it out for the life of me. Until I looked in the fuel tank. The fuel was a rust brown. So I'm thinking it clogged the jet. So this afternoon the post man dropped past and delivered a much sort after air filter. (Thanks huntsmen). I oiled it up, put it in the bike sealed up the airbox. Dropped the rust fuel and put some fresh fuel in it. And made sure not to stir it up. It was running on 3 for a little. Then like clouds clearing. The awful exhaust note changed to the sweet sound of an inline 4. And it idles again and start without the choke. So plan of attack the next time I get paid is. Get the rust out of the tank and the tank relined. While I have the tank off get rid of the water in the cooling system and replace it with that nulon stuff. And install fan switch.
http://www.supercheapauto.com.au/on...il-Ready-to-Use-5-Litre.aspx?pid=106645#Cross I would run it for awhile then change it again to help clean the crap out.
Hey Tim I would be concern if the bike got that warm with no additive in it. As you mentioned only water in the overflow, not good. The Nulon or other brands raise the boiling point of water to around 130 or thereabouts. Honda's do have the tendency to run a little warmer than other bikes as a rule. My CBR1100 gave me no end of grief when I first acquired it, in traffic it would go to 102 to 104 but as soon as I hit the open road back down to 80. Checks with 2 mechanics and Honda dealer came back the same, nothing to be concerned about. Have you checked the thermostat, I would. Good luck with it mate.
mine hits 3/4s before thermo comes on, cools it bloody fast though. dips the idle when they come as well lol. The nulon stuff is about $20 but it will last ages as it's concentrate just buy distilled water as well. For your tank get road gravel make sure it's tiny enough to come out the bottom hole. Shake until your arms fall off and flush. I bought a KBS TANK REPAIR KIT. I haven't done that yet as I am using my spare tank. I got mine from Queensland paint supplies in rocklea for wholesale price like $55 I think compared to $80 on ebay.