This time I won't worry. This is just to touch up the nose. So it's all black instead of patchy red and black. I am actually taking the whole fairing to a friend and getting it gloss black. And the wheels will get plasti dipped black too.
This is why being mates with the maintenance guys at work pays off. All those rusted in bolts are gonna be replace with food grade stainless steel Allen key bolts.
Before and after a quick pressure pack spray to cover up the red. Until I get the fairing painted properly that is.
i have found dulux cans give a better finish than the cheapies.some cans sold in auto spares places are not for vehicle use! most cans are not enamel but a varnish.the real cheapies are so thin there is little coverage.
I figured seeings how I only really need to do the front breaks and a carbi tune I could put the fairing back on. Well for now. My plan is once it's all running a1. I'm striping it back to the frame so I can clean everything. Because I noticed there is a lot of oil and dirt and grime in tight spots you could only get to by taking it apart. I like how the over sized stainless bolts turned out. Gives the bike and industrial look.
ct18 truck wash is good for cleaning. spray on ,leave and waterblast off. leaves clean. i also use dishwashing liquid and it takes road grime off rims.
Cheers mate will keep it in mind. I will be rubbing all the steel down with a green scrubbing pad to get that grain finish back into all the steel.
Ok so I have a question. I went to go start my bike after work. And it was like the battery was dead. It wouldn't turn the starter motor. It was like something was stopping it. I pressed the start button a couple of times and it finally started winding over. But there was no spark. Not tell tail put put put out the exhaust of it trying to start. Just winding. So I twisted the fuel tap to prime then back to res. after a minute or 2 and me panicking. It struggled but eventually started. That's when I noticed it didn't sound properly. Now could something cause it not to fire on all pistons when it's cold? Because once I raised the revs it sounded like it should. But once the revs dropped and the bike warned up I sprayed the headers and only the #1 and #4 header pipes were hot. So now I'm getting confused as to why it it's doing this. Gasket seals? Maybe? Or valves?
1 coil sparks 1 and 4 and the other 2 and 3 .... start there ..... swap them around and see if 2 and 3 fire
Pot 2 is sparking. I swapped them all around and it won't even kick over. Wouldn't the firing sequence be all out of whack now?
On an A model firing sequence is different, left to right (from a sitting on bike position looking down) coil 1 cylinder 1 and 2, coil 2 cylinder 3 and 4. I will double check this for you when I get home but I had this confusion when i was rebuilding my one.
Tim ...start by checking all the caps ...unscrew them and look inside both ends for corrosion. Snip a few mms off the ends of the leads to give the cap some new shiny wire to bite into ...make sure the screw goes into the wire not the rubber . Connect them as above ...then take out 1 plug at a time , put it back into the cap/lead and lay it on the head .....turn the motor and look for a nice bluey spark. rinse and repeat If theres failures next step is to test the coils with a multimeter Are the plugs actually new?
Go with Grey's schematic. I may be going crazy because it was about 6 months ago since I did concerted work on my ZXR but for some reason I think I had the 1,2,3,4 setup... I'll look later on.
Plugs are new. I'm thoroughly confused by this now. Ok so it the proper order. Cylinder 2 and 3 headers rub cold. When I swap around the 1 and 2 lead cylinder 3 header will be hot but 1 and 2 are cold. I swapped it back now but am going to snip the end as I noticed they are very loose. So I'm thinking it's a circuit not connecting somewhere.