Im trying something new - my ZXR250

Update time. So I flushed the radiator and this is what came out



I used and old oil pan to catch the fluid. So I kept flushing it until the water ran clear. It took me until the 3rd time to realise I needed to get the water out of where the bleed nipple is too. I then put the litre if nulon in the radiator and that filled it. I then ran a wire from the + terminal then hooked up a earth wire. Then I ran the bike for a bit and wait for it to get hot again. Then I powered on the thermo fan. The heat didn't go above half way while the bike was on idle.



So I'm pretty chuffed on that. Still can't manage to get these front brakes sorted. So I'm thinking I need to pull the caliper apart.

 

Hahahahahaha best comment ever

 

Cheers phil. I will keep you posted. I have noticed the overflow bottle was still full of water. It still boiled from the hot air. So I just put some coolant in the overflow. The radiator didn't boil this time.

Does anyone know how to tell if the top of the motor is full? Without pulling off the airbox I mean.

 

I should re word that. How can I tell the entire system is full of coolent?

 

Quick update before I eat dinner and bed. I ruled out the master cylinder as the problem. I swapped out the zxr for my R6 master cylinder and still no pressure. So it's time to pull the callipers off and pull them apart checking the seals as I go.

 

Ok so today I got stuck into the thermo fan switch. But I decided to do it a little different then just butchering the wiring and hard wiring everything in.
So I brought so of these.

The. I used some old ring connectors and found a nice earth point.

Then I used the whit connectors and and hooked up the + and the grnd.

I taped up the + wire so it doesn't earth on anything. And then I found a place for the switch.

Think me paranoid. But after I soldered the wires to the switch I tapped them up just to be sure nothing would connect.

Then I connected everything back up to the wiring loom.

So the reason I did all this is I still plan to replace the thermo stat. So it will engage the fan when it gets hot. But now I have the option to turn the fan on if I know I'm going to be crawling through traffic. And I don't have to wait for the bike to heat up before it the fan kicks in.

 

Cheers mate. I will just top it up. I assume it's working properly because when it had just water in it the hot air was escaping into the over flow bottle. And making the bottle boil. So I'm lucky there.

Thanks heaps for that link will come In handy tomorrow when I get stuck in and pull them off the bike. I so temped to roll it out the front and take it for a quick strap and get it up through the gears and see if the gearbox is all good.

 

I did something bad today. But I think it was for the good. I decided to take the bike around the block. For 2 reasons
1) to make sure the clutch and gearbox were still working. I had some issues with adjusting the clutch.

So I soaked it in inox. 2 vice grips and some muscle and it all started to move again.
2) I was told that sometimes bikes just need to be ridden to get everything flowing and some pressure at hi revs to blow the crap out of the system.
The outcome) the cooling system sorted it self out. There was either an air pocket somewhere or a blockage. After one ride it took the extra 200mls and the bubbling stopped once I topped it up. The coolent will need another flush now as it's gone cloudy again. Thermo over ride was a success too. Also the clutch all works and it goes up to 4th just fine. The carbs will need adjusting but I knew that was gonna happen. So all in all a successful morning thus far.

 

I didn't actually think about that. Will give it a try. Cheers grey.

 

Regular oil? Because I would just use inox and spray it on the wire and just keep moving and spray it enough to soak the wire all the time

 

Cheers for that mate.

 

So my afternoon turned into a fun lesson in removing rust in bolts that you can't get leverage on. The things I learnt were.

1) don't rush any of the process. All you will do is get angry. Lol. So slow down and think it through.
2) try not to spray to much lube an what your working on. Other wise you have nothing to grip onto and everything you try clamp on will want to slip off.
3)don't, I repeat don't cut or grind anything besides the bolt head. It might seem like a good idea to grind the clip. But it's not. You will regret it....... Like I am.
As I said before I had some rusted in bolts that didn't want to come undone. Sadly in my attempts to undo them I rounded them. And this is how I I got them out.

I first tried to cut a slit through the bolt head to get a flat head screw driver into the bolts.

I thought this was the way to go. But the steal was weak. And I started to break the top of the bolt. So I get my ozito rotary tool out and slow ground the top of the bolt away.
(But I accidentally deleted the picture. Yep I know dumb **** move). Then once I saw the tell take ring of the thread through the steel. I snapped the bolt off the bolt head.

Then I got some more lube and vice clamps with a lot of leverage. Then presto. Thread came free. So I saved that H mount that bolts the side fairings to the engine.

 

Then I took the screen off the fairing. And took it out side. This is the difference from left to right panels.

And this is the professional paint job on the nose.

So I gave it all a wash. And scuffed it with a green scrubbing pad. So the paint will have something to stick too. So tomorrow it's time to paint.