Project My '90 FZR250 3LN3

Thank's mate, i'm slowly getting there with it, been cold and wet here for the last week so i'm not doing a lot to it atm.


Hey, just wondering does anyone have any of their FZR plastic's off atm ?
I am wanting to do a couple of fairing repair's but need to know what type of welding rod's to buy, they're usually made from ABS , possibly PC, PP or PE plastic.
On the inside of the fairing's there will be a part number, maker and the plastic type used in the moulding process, if anyone can help me out that'd be great

Cheer's, Craig

 

I've just pulled the front lower and rear left side fairing's off but cant see any marking's.
It may be covered up by the sound deadener on the inside of the lower fairing but i don't want to replace it atm if i can find out otherwise
I'm going with ABS if no one else know's

I'm also thinking about a slight colour change to the black/blue and gunmetal grey factory colour's.
Thinking about changing the gunmetal stripe's to a metallic blue, and will touch up a couple of the scratch's on the black then finish it with a final coat or 2 of PPC Diamond Clear gloss finish or similar

 

Nah nothing anywhere i can see, the inner of the rear side panel is totally blank too

I'm a Panel Beater/Painter/Custom Fabricator so plastic welding is easy, i've done ton's of stuff on car's and my other bike's.
Bunning's even stock's the ABS welding rod's these day's



I also have an Lord Fusor epoxy repair kit which will repair anything too, the dealer up the road has all their product's in stock




The roof on this 500hp TR8 Rally car i did all the body mod's on, including fibreglass flare's, bonnet, boot, bumper's etc then painted for a friend is even held on with the Fusor Adhesive

 

I had a go at repairing
a small crack today on the bottom rear of the left fairing.
Welded it with the ABS rod's from Bunning's, welded very easy and is just as strong as the original if not stronger
I blended in some black just to cover it for the moment, and will respray it once i mix up some of the original colour if i can find a paint code for the Black/Blue pearl

 

Thank's, plastic is easy compared to steel


This 20B RX3 i put over 500 hour's of bodywork and paint into, it ran a 6.47 1/4 mile @220mph and he lost control over the finish line
Had all fibreglass panel's from the windscreen forward, glass bumper's and boot, gutted door's with alloy trim's, the rear 1/4 panel's were pumped out 50mm wider each side and the rear door's flared to match, and the wheel arch's were lengthened 200mm so he could run the 15 x 10's under the back

 

I found and bought a good set of 3LN intake manifold's for my bike on Ebay Japan, $30 buy it now and $30 express post, seller said they have no crack's and aren't that old




Also picked up a spare part's engine cheap today out of an '87 2KR, it's complete with carb's and 2 set's of intake manifold, air box, starter, exhaust etc
Emulsion tube's and needle's all look good
There was also a full loom, ignition box, 2 ignition coil's, radiator, thermostat, radiator filler neck, rear foot peg's, fuel tank outlet, and a few other bit's and piece's
Engine was a good runner from the wrecker's that this lad bought but sold his bike before he had a chance to fit it.

 

I bought another horn at the wreckers today, it's the low tone off a 2006 Mercedes Benz E220
Horn is made by Fiamm, model is AM80R 405 Hz low tone (part of a hi/low set AM80S-R), the single horn draw's 4.5 amp's so i might need to wire in a relay so i don't melt my wiring, switch and contact's






Here's a quick toot, click on the video below to play

 

I fixed up the cracked/broken right mirror today, plastic welded the crack and then filled the missing section near the glass with the ABS filler rod's.
All i need to do now is prime and paint it

 

I received my new $14 500° C Infrared Thermometer, and a pair of ceramic H4 headlight socket's today.




Tested out the thermometer against my outside thermometer and got pretty much the same reading, 12.6° C with the infrared, and 12° C on the outdoor thermometer so that's close enough.




So i started up my bike and warmed it up.
I took reading's off each pipe at around the same distance from the head, i found number 3 cylinder was reading about 30° cooler than # 1, 2 and 4
Adjusted #3's mixture screw out to lean it off and raise the exhaust temp and all around close within a few degree's, adjusted the idle speed to suit and the idle has become a lot smoother, and the throttle response is way better

Here's a quick video of the temp's after adjusting #3 carb, i'm not sure what happened to my before video though

 

Hmm, strange that winding the mixture screw out make's that cylinder run hotter
I'm going to have to recheck them tomorrow

 

Thank's,
i read that thread on xjrider just before i ordered the temp gun, i remember reading that now

 

Yeah i grit blasted them first.
I used the 80 grit Alemite, Aluminium Oxide blasting media, a 20kg bag is about $25, i have Glass Bead and Sodium Bicarbonate that i use too all depend's on the job/finish i want.
But getting paint to stick to header's and exhaust's etc you're best off using a medium/fine abrasive grit to give the paint something to really grab ont0



I finished them with Duplicolor High Heat Aluminium finish which came out ok,
baked it on running the engine for 2 min's then let cool, then 5 min's and let cool, then took it out for an easy ride for an hour or so.
Supercheap have a special every couple of week's 2 tin's for $22
http://www.supercheapauto.com.au/on...luminium-340g.aspx?pid=324085#Recommendations




I've heard this stuff is excellent too
http://www.kbs-coatings.com.au/product/xtc-xtreme-temp-coating/


I posted a couple of pic's of my setup here too