It's cheap and looks cool, that's its only purpose apart from removing the key and ignition barrel for weight savings.
Given up on the mc22, total waste of ******* money and time. Back to R3 building and progressing forward instead of backwards.
Strip down to get rad out for weld up as I have developed a leak Will degrease bike while stripped down later Also checking out what I need to convert back to factory for classic racing need some brackets like h and front fairing so if anyone has a spare and would like to donate or cheap let me know
Thanks to someone for following my racing https://www.facebook.com/permalink....03673803&id=1547184502166718&substory_index=0
z50 wheel and hub rebuild, vinegar cleans bolts for that new factory look. We'll see how VHT 'Aluminium' Engine enamel goes tomorrow. Big fan of VHT paints, engine enamel is tough, resists chemicals, chose it over wheel paint or caliper paint options in the colour I want.
Brake backing plate, VHT SP127 Univ Aluminium 320 grit wet&dry, vingar, water wash, airline and sun dry, two light coats, 10 mins between coat, shake can 60 secs to get even mix each time, then one final topcoat in calm shade.
Started to pull apart the 3LN6 to find out what's going. No. 4 cylinder was full to the top of the intake boot with fuel. By this point I had already removed the headers so I just cranked it over to flush it out the exhaust port. @GreyImport you better save one of those float valves/needles for me
Unless you are lucky enough to be on the exhaust stroke 'just cranking it over' can result in hydrolock and that is not a good thing. You should remove the spark plug first.
I had this issue on the 400, I believe it was the float height from memory. Fixed it after a bit more measuring and bending the tab