Talk at the Learners course here (NSW) was that the FZRs and ZXRs etc cant do the P test because of their lack of turn at slow speed on all the stupid cone dodging u have to do.
u turn was difficult but that was the only hard part the turning circle is not great as you all know. They give you plenty of practice., Just dont go with a loud exhaust.
Wow 250 with ur bike or 300 use theirs in qld although it bs having to do 2nd test still do same speed on LAMS as to opens
I know right, the only difference is the bikes a little heavier. I smashed it, soooooo easy this time.
mate best best for fairing repairer is getting a fiberglass repair tub from bunnings. lightly rub down the front and the back of the area of the fairings. start cutting the fiberglass matting to size, little bit bigger than the damage, but make sure you cover the whole area not just the crack. start on the back and allow it to dry (its a quick process) than go to the front and repeat. once dry, block sand the outside and skim it with bog and sand, and repeat. once your happy re drill your mounting holes in the plastic. start with a small bit and work your way up and by the end of it all your fairing will be stronger than ever.
I got the fairings all back together and they're holding, but I don't think they're going to hold for long. I think it's time to invest in a new set and start repainting. I finally took apart the old carbs and discovered the root of all the problems. The stutter, the failing to start when the bike was warm, the running rich, the difficulty starting in general. It was these The diaphragm on the left is missing the small brass spacer, the one on the right has the spacer. From what I can figure, vacuum pressure forces the slide open, pulls the needle out of the jet and allows more fuel to pass through. Without the small spacer, vacuum pressure would build up over the time of a short ride and it would just hold that pressure, keeping the slide pulled out. Just something I have to keep in mind next time I check the carbs. I hope this helps someone out there who's having the same issues I'm having. Also, come this friday I'm going to have to drop the oil because the little crush washer seems to have crushed a bit to much and I've developed a leak, I'm also going to be replacing my indicators and brake lights with LED's. After that it's new fairings and a paint job.
Forgot to post this. This is a video of one of the diaphragms failing to close properly, and holding too much suction. Cyl 1, 2 and 4 all have the small spacer, cyl 3 was missing its spacer.
Yep, it's running 100% now. Stopping on the other hand just turned into an issue. My front brakes seem to have turned into marshmellows. I think I have some air in the lines somewhere.
I have a problem with my brakes now. After about 5 minutes of riding, the front brakes become a bit wobbly and loose, I took apart the lever and had a look, and it seems like the cylinder that pushes the lever back out and deactivates the brake light, isn't extending all the way. I tried to bleed the brakes a few days ago, but that didn't fix the problem.
I decided to clean the cam chain tensioner and check to see if it was still good. I still have some mad cam rattle, so it looks like I'll be getting a new cam chain soon. I tried the brakes again, but nothing seems to work.
The brakes are still stiff even though the master cylinder piston is stack half way in. I put some wd40 and topped up the fluid and it seems to have come good, but I don't know for how long. But for some reason the bike doesn't want to start anymore, I think I may have a blocked fuel filter or maybe my spark plugs. Also, once the bike does eventually start, there is no juttering or caughing, it just revs down, stalls and then fails to start again. I have no idea why.
Tomorrow I'm ordering a new cam chain and I think I might need a new clutch. Over the past few days I've noticed at higher RPM, the bike will select 2nd gear for a second, then drop back to either neutral or first. I thought it was me just not pulling up hard enough and dropping it into neutral, but if I hold my foot under the selector, I can feel the selector push back as it tries to go back a gear. Do you guys think this is a clutch issue or a gearbox issue?
carb issue sounds like fuel.. might need to clean them or at least check your jets and see if they are blocked Is there any cam chain slap when you feather the throttle?
I sorted out the fuel issue. The petcock has some gunk in it. And there is some bad cam chain rattle. I thought it might have been the tensioner but I checked it and its good. Hopefully I'll get the chain on Tuesday.
A little bit of an update. Eva has been going strong. I still haven't replaced the cam chain yet, I think I'll wait till it gets a bit worse. The clutch started slipping pretty badly at higher RPM, so I ordered a new one and later today I'm going to replace that. I only noticed when the clutch arrived that it was designed to only fit the A model and not the C, and I was wondering if there is any difference between the 2 clutches.