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FZR250 - had work done to my bike and . . .

Discussion in 'Yamaha 250cc In-Line 4's' started by richie, Jul 9, 2015.

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  1. richie

    richie Active Member

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    Ah I thought you had a jre on one of your bikes my mistake!
     
    richie, Jul 17, 2015
    #121
  2. Linkin

    Linkin The Mechanic Premium Member Contributing Member Dirty Wheel Club

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    I do, I mean the stock exhaust is sitting in the garage. The JRE has a nice deep note due to the "longer" length (compared to the short 30cm ones)
     
    Linkin, Jul 17, 2015
    #122
  3. richie

    richie Active Member

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    Ah yes this is adding 10 bhp to your garage ha ha but yes I wanted the stubby as I was hoping to get a similar sound to the yanamoto like a gp bike with out the mahoosive wemoto price tag. So did you rejet or just bolt it on and it was fine?
     
    richie, Jul 17, 2015
    #123
  4. Linkin

    Linkin The Mechanic Premium Member Contributing Member Dirty Wheel Club

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    I haven't changed any jets, but keep in mind I am running 3LN1 carbies on a 3LN7 engine. I don't know what jets are in the carbs.
     
    Linkin, Jul 17, 2015
    #124
  5. richie

    richie Active Member

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    Ive replacement ones that are of standard size outers are 102.5 and inners 100. Im not sure what that means but you might lol
     
    richie, Jul 17, 2015
    #125
  6. Joker

    Joker See "about me" for contact details. Contributing Member

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    @GreyImport why don't you just use "oil proof" gasket paper instead of gasket goo? I didn't read the whole conversation but I've done this on a clutch cover with no leakage. I just trace the cover onto the paper, grab a pair of scissors and a hole punch... voila.
     
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    Joker, Jul 17, 2015
    #126
  7. richie

    richie Active Member

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    Hey greyimport is the first clutch Iink I put up *cheaper* one is that not a full kit? I ordered the gasket it was out of stock so by the time I get it I shoud have enough money for the clutch. I think linkin is right that the clutch is a problem or the problem :( I think it slips at peak torque a bit then catches grip again and goes not sure if its carbs or clearances give the grief any more but on a side note didnt drive the bike for two days and it was an anti christ to start this morning. Took three attempts dont think it like being out in the monsoon. The first two times I started it minus choke which I have been doing since I got it back as the mech said I didnt need to anyway it started the two times idle fairly low so gave it some juice and conked on, third attempt with choke it just sayed goin and reved up and I left it warm while putting on my gear dare I ask is this normal or have I ruined it recently lol
     
    richie, Jul 17, 2015
    #127
  8. Mclaren

    Mclaren Well-Known Member Contributing Member

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    If bike running right u need choke till revs rise the. Drop choke and ride u don't let them idle for ages as it not good they meant to be raped hahaha
     
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    Mclaren, Jul 17, 2015
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  9. Joker

    Joker See "about me" for contact details. Contributing Member

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    Do a spin test on the clutch. Go up to third or fourth gear at speed (med-high RPM) and just drop the clutch hard. If the clutch is good it should just grip and go, if not the revs will ramp up for a couple of secs then drop back down as the clutch grabs. Couple of times won't hurt it but I wouldn't be repeating that all the time.

    Hard to start could be valve clearances or pilot screw settings. Just try full choke and hold that cranking on. In cold weather mine takes a good 5 seconds of cranking but will start up if I am patient (I know I've got clearance issues too).
     
    Joker, Jul 17, 2015
    #129
  10. richie

    richie Active Member

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    Yea I think thats what is happening in general I will give that a go but iv a feeling I know what the result will be.

    Ya iv had my clearances done and the rest recently so the should be good must look at my wheel bearings to while the sun is out
     
    richie, Jul 17, 2015
    #130
  11. richie

    richie Active Member

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    Had a look at the wheel bearing on front feels like the brakes are catching a bit but ive the feeling since everything else is a bit tired it myt just be half seized bearings. The clutch definitely slipping. Theres a noise coming off the bike like a fella sawing a piece of timber im assuming that couldnt be good.
     
    richie, Jul 18, 2015
    #131
  12. Joker

    Joker See "about me" for contact details. Contributing Member

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    Check how straight your wheel is... Mine rubbed slightly on the rear and I just adjusted it. Alternative could just be new pads if they have worn funny.
     
    Joker, Jul 18, 2015
    #132
  13. richie

    richie Active Member

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    Its fairly straight chain is finished lol are the front wheel bearings the same for all fzr models or are they different diameters? Will I need to replace the bolt pin that they sit on?
     
    richie, Jul 18, 2015
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  14. Joker

    Joker See "about me" for contact details. Contributing Member

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    I am not sure on that one. I doubt your axle would be that bad I think it's more likely your front brake plate is worn or your pads have worn out in a funny shape. Have you replaced the pads?

    Usually the disk will wear in a kind of "u" profile so you'll need a micrometer to check it properly (calipers won't detect the variance across the surface).
     
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    Joker, Jul 18, 2015
    #134
  15. richie

    richie Active Member

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    Yea ive changed the pads about 500km ago there bedded in now. The old pads still had meat on them and were worn evenly. The discs looks ok to me loads of meat on them. If im free wheeling at 30km clutch in, it sound like some one sawing timber lol and if I use front breaks noise stays the same no better no worse. Same result if I use back brake. So I guess I can rule out the brakes as the cause of the noise?

    I thought it was the chain at first but im starting to think its siezed front wheel bearings I can also feel a bit of vibration in the handle bars at times. The bike was stood up a good while before I bought it.

    Ive a new old problem resurfaced its an absolute hore to start when cold again. Took me at least ten minutes and nearly all the juice in the battery to get it going choke on or off didnt make a difference then when it did start left it run for a couple of minutes and boom cut out when I touched the throttle and just about restarted and got going and once I did it was fine?

    AAAAAAAHHHHHHHHHH
     
    richie, Jul 19, 2015
    #135
  16. Willrcr15

    Willrcr15 Well-Known Member

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    Get the wheel off & stick your finger in it & you'll know.
    the axle should be ok but check it hasn't worn a groove in it.
    Bearings are available anywhere at a bearing shop, just take the old ones with you along with the seals.
    Try starting the bike with full choke, let it crank for 5 sec or so, if she doesn't fire close the choke & try without it, good chance shes got enough fuel, give her 2 more 5 sec cranks then choke again if she hasn't fired. If that doesn't work there's a problem. I'd start with the choke mech, carbies flooding a bit, float heights, set up a temp fuel supply & muck around tipping small amounts of fuel straight into the carby inlets & see if shes rich or lean for starting
     
    Willrcr15, Jul 19, 2015
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  17. Linkin

    Linkin The Mechanic Premium Member Contributing Member Dirty Wheel Club

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    If its lean it wont start without 1/4 or less of throttle
     
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    Linkin, Jul 19, 2015
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  18. Willrcr15

    Willrcr15 Well-Known Member

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    Generally we don't touch the throttle till she fires, she'll go if the choke is working, turning the throttle only confuses the situation if your chasing an issue.
     
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    Willrcr15, Jul 19, 2015
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  19. GreyImport

    GreyImport Administrator Staff Member The Chief Contributing Member

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    Amen to that ..... a correctly running motor should start with the press of the starter and NO throttle ..... + choke when cold and no choke when warm

    Check that your choke plungers are seated and clipped into the carbys correctly and that the choke cable and choke operating bar are working correctly ... make sure the bar is clipped onto all 4 plungers


    Carb Bank choke.jpg
     
    GreyImport, Jul 19, 2015
    #139
  20. richie

    richie Active Member

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    Getting the wheel off will prove difficult ive no paddock stands :( but I will do it lol ive priced the axel and bearings o.e comes to 80 before postage :-/ the small crappy town I live near doesnt have a bearing shop it doesn't even have a bike dealership ha ha

    I will try exactly what you said about starting it tomorrow and let ye know the results.

    It was starting ok all along until the monsoon hit it must not like the rain.

    Last time I checked my choke was all connected and plungers were good and cable isnt sticking or anything.

    FYI I was really and truly needing it today to start in a hurry I was at a lady friends house and needed to vacate the premises quickly . . . . After begging the bike to start for what seemed an eternity panic was setting in but it got going and so did before i got into an trouble ha ha
     
    richie, Jul 19, 2015
    #140
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