Help Need help MC22 wont start, track day coming sunday!!!

could be solenoid?

 

My bandit used to turn over repeatedly with the side stand engaged but it never started. Depends on how it is wired into the circuit I suppose.

 

Go to Jaycar and buy a $6 multimeter - http://www.jaycar.com.au/Test-&-Measurement/Multimeters/Digital/Mini-Digital-Multimeter/p/QM1502

Watch & learn how to use it




*** Note - All this assumes that you press the starter button and the motor doesn't crank ***


Now on to the actual tests. Charge your battery for a number of hours/overnight.


Put the positive multi lead onto the positive terminal, negative onto negative (both on the battery). Press the starter button and note the voltage. Less than 12V is no good. It's very important that you measure the battery voltage while the battery is under load.


Next, you need put the positive multi lead onto the positive terminal of the starter solenoid. Push starter and measure voltage that the solenoid is getting. Again, less than 12V is no good.


Finally you put the positive multi lead onto the positive terminal of the starter motor, press the starter button & measure the voltage. If there's no voltage, the lead from the solenoid to the starter motor may be loose, or the solenoid is dead. Usually you can hear the solenoid click each time you press the starter button.



Damus - you still haven't told us EXACTLY what happens when you press the starter button. Is the starter turning the engine over? Do you just hear the solenoid clicking? Do you hear nothing at all?

I'll ask you again to please take a video of you trying to start the bike so we can help you get it going.

 

Damus.

All good mate, take a breath. As has been said, get a cheap multimeter, try and get one with continuity tone (diode function) it makes it easier. Check the side switch first!! Try and bypass it if you can, it may be that simple.

1. If your plugs aren't fouled and they're new it's not them.
2. Test your battery!!! one cell dead will allow turnover but not enough current to start! Ensure you are getting voltage at the coils by testing the wires to the coils from the battery.
3. Test your coils:



4. Test your stator:

http://www.2fiftycc.com/index.php?threads/howto-testing-a-motorcycle-stator.2052/

5. Test your reg/rec:



6. You've ruled the CDI out. So if no fuses are blown and all the above checks out in spec then you may have a short somewhere. That will be a bit more involved but it's just knocking one thing off at a time.

Only a couple hours work in the above, not too difficult to do either mate. Keep record of what you're measuring and fill us in on how you go.

 

A small 0.5V drop in the battery voltage could signify a dropped cell. Sounds like it's turning over slowly to me.... I'd be testing that battery.

BTW, are you turning it over with the side stand down in that video...?

 

You need to understand what a reg/rec actually does. It converts AC current (from the stator) to DC current (to charge the battery). The battery is what actually provides the spark, but a malfunctioning reg/rec could cause fluctuating current, damage the battery or just stop charging the battery. If the last thing happens the battery will go flat after a while because it's using all it's energy at the plugs but not getting it back from the charging system.

It's a universal thing to all bikes, not just the mC22. They differ in design but do essentially the same thing.

 

Damus I just read one of your posts. If the motor is turning and the coils check out, but you're getting no spark... do the following (as suggested by @GreyImport to many others)

You take the plug leads off the spark plugs, unscrew the caps from the leads & chop off a section of coil lead. So that the plug caps have fresh wire to screw into.

 

I have seen 22's with dead reg's that have stopped them in their tracks. If the reg checks out, then start tracing the issue from the pulse coils back ( the pulse coils are what sends the pulse to the CDI which in turn fires the coils) , the first place to look is your pulse coils ( also known as pickups) , they are under the engine cover on the LH side of the bike, unplug them from your loom and use your multimeter to ohms, there should be between 315-385 ohms of resistance, if not inspect the wiring, I had a break on one of my cibbys, twisted the wires together and that fixed it

if that's okay, remove your front nose cone, trace the wiring from your RH switch block to behind the speedo, it should terminate at a red plug and a single wire that's red and yellow, make sure both the plug and the red and yellow wire is connected properly.

Finally, these things need super awesome batteries to run, maybe try starting it off some jumper leads off a non running car or a suitably powered jump pack.

I have sent you a PM

 

is the kill switch on?

 

Mate check out my race bike thread I had a no spark issue and have heaps of pics and ideas on it turned out to be a couple of dodgy wires in loom which I found by unwrapping the loom and also battery not fully charged

 

Seems silly but I had problems with my MC22 when I mistakenly put the coils to the wrong sparkplugs. I'd test the sidestand, clutch switch, and kill switch for faultiness, clean the carbs and charge the battery. You CANNOT definitively test the RR on the bench. Sometimes they appear good, but stop working. Also, Honda changed the design to a more reliable model (Tyga has genuine Honda ones for a very good price). Or your battery is stuffed. It shouldn't be hard to get a MC22 going.

Side note: If your RR was stuffed, it has the potential to cause havoc on the wiring harness, the CDI and the battery. Double check the fuses too. I had my RR go but my eliptech shifting lights gave me a over-voltage warning and elipze on the CBR250.com forums pointed out the cause to me (bike ran perfectly though).

 

CBR250 PROBLEM SOLVED: Trade in for an FZR?

*ducks*

Now where did I put my wooden spoon....?